Labuan Bajo is a small harbor town on the western tip of the island of Flores, in East Nusa Tenggara, and it is the gateway to Komodo National Park. The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that takes in Komodo, Rinca, Padar and many smaller islands, and it is the only place where you can see wild Komodo dragons in numbers. The town itself is modest, with a waterfront, a handful of restaurants and dive shops and a growing number of hotels, but the water around it is the reason to come.
Getting there
Most visitors fly into Komodo Airport, a short drive from the town, with flights from Bali and other Indonesian hubs. Some arrive by ferry or by sea on a longer journey, and some join a cruise or a liveaboard that calls here. Check flight schedules early, as seats on the popular routes fill in the high season, and build a buffer into your plans in case weather or schedule changes delay a flight.
What the park is
Komodo National Park is a cluster of islands rather than a single place, and each has a different character. Komodo and Rinca are the dragon islands, where rangers lead walks on short trails. Padar offers the famous viewpoint over three bays. Pink Beach has pale pink sand and shallow reef, and the waters around the park hold reefs with manta rays, turtles and a wide range of fish. Most trips combine several of these in a day or over several days.
The boat choices
There are three main ways to see the park. A day trip by speedboat or standard boat leaves in the morning and returns in the evening. A two-day open trip adds a night on board. A liveaboard of three days or more gives the most time and the best chance of sunrise at the viewpoints. Speedboats are faster and cover more islands in a day but are louder and bumpier, while sailing boats are slower and more atmospheric. Our guide to choosing between a liveaboard and a day trip goes into the trade-offs.
What to book ahead
In the high season, from roughly June to September, book your flights, your hotel and your boat trip in advance. Liveaboard departures can sell out, and the better boats fill early. Day trips are easier to arrange a few days ahead. Land tours such as Wae Rebo and the spiderweb rice fields need a day or more of planning, and Kelimutu is a separate journey across the island.
How many days
Two nights in Labuan Bajo is the minimum for a day trip to the park and a half day around town. Three or four nights lets you add a second boat day or a land tour. A week allows a liveaboard, a rest day and a trek to Wae Rebo. Do not squeeze the park into a single afternoon, because the crossings are long and the weather can change the plan.
Money and practicalities
Indonesia uses the rupiah, and cash is useful on boats, at villages and for park or donation fees that are not included in tour prices. Cards are accepted at larger hotels and restaurants in town, but not everywhere, and cash machines can be limited. Take sun protection, insect repellent, a reusable bottle and a light rain layer. Tap water is not safe to drink, so buy bottled or filtered water.
Health and safety
The heat and sun are strong, and dehydration is common on boat days. Seasickness is a real possibility on open water, so bring tablets if you are prone. Follow the ranger instructions on the dragon trails, because the animals are wild, and stay with the group in the water, where currents can be strong. Check that your boat has life jackets and a working radio, and take out travel insurance that covers boat trips and activities.
Where to stay
The town center and the Marina area are best for early boat departures and for walking to restaurants. Waecicu Beach and Pede Beach offer sea views, pools and quieter evenings, at the cost of taxis into town. Our where-to-stay guide compares the options in detail.
A sensible first plan
Arrive, rest and watch the sunset at a viewpoint. Spend your first full day on a Komodo day trip with the dragons and a viewpoint. Take a second day for Rangko Cave and a snorkeling stop, or a sunset trip to Kalong Island. If you have more time, add a night on a boat or a trek to Wae Rebo. Keep a spare day for weather.
