The proboscis monkey exists only on Borneo, and the wetlands of the Klias and nearby Bongawan area south-west of Kota Kinabalu are among the easiest places to see it. The standard trip leaves the city in the afternoon, drives for a couple of hours, and boards a small river boat in late afternoon, when the monkeys come down to feed and settle in the riverside trees. You cruise slowly past mangrove and nipah palm, scanning for the males with their pendulous noses, the harems of females and their young, and perhaps long-tailed macaques, monitor lizards, kingfishers and eagles. As dusk falls the river turns quiet, and the trip ends with the fireflies, thousands of tiny lights pulsing in the mangrove trees, which many visitors rate as the highlight of their stay. The tour we link to is a long day of about nine hours, with the return to the city after dark.
What to watch for
Proboscis monkeys are shy, and sightings depend on the tide, the season and luck, so treat the monkeys as a bonus and not a guarantee. The guides know where the troops sleep and will cut the engine so the boat can drift quietly. A zoom lens or good binoculars help, as the monkeys are often high in the canopy. The fireflies are the most reliable part of the evening, and they are best enjoyed in the dark without torches or flash photography, which disturbs the insects.
How to prepare
Choose a tour that includes dinner and a return transfer, because the road back is long and travelling independently in the dark is not practical. Wear long, light-coloured clothing and put on insect repellent before you board, as mosquitoes are active at dusk. Bring a light rain jacket, as tropical showers are frequent, and keep valuables in a dry bag. Boats are open-sided with life jackets provided.
Trade-offs and tips
The trip involves several hours in a vehicle, so it suits visitors who enjoy wildlife more than comfort. Weekends can be crowded, and larger boats can be noisier, so a small-group operator is worth the extra spend. If you are short on time, a Bongawan river cruise is a similar alternative on the same coast, but the Klias trip is the classic version. Pair it with a slower day on the islands or at the markets to balance the schedule.
What to expect
The experience
A small-boat cruise on the Klias wetlands at dusk, watching proboscis monkeys in the riverside trees and fireflies after dark.
Best time
Late afternoon into evening, when the monkeys feed and the fireflies begin to glow.
How long
About nine hours including the two-hour drive each way, the cruise and dinner.
Tips
Wear long, light clothes and repellent, bring binoculars and a rain jacket, and keep torches and flash off around the fireflies.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Wildlife lovers who want to see proboscis monkeys and fireflies without leaving the Kota Kinabalu area.
- Families
- Older children usually love the boat and the fireflies, but the long day and late return are tiring for toddlers.
- Couples
- The firefly stretch of the cruise, in near-silence under the stars, is the romantic moment of the trip.
- Pair with
- A beach or market day the next morning helps balance the long evening.
- Time needed
- Allow the whole afternoon and evening.
Good questions
Will I definitely see proboscis monkeys?+
Sightings are very likely but not guaranteed, because the monkeys are wild and move with the tide and the season. Guides know the favourite roosting trees.
When do the fireflies appear?+
They begin to glow soon after dark and are best seen in the dark without lights. The tour times the cruise so that you arrive as they become active.
How long is the journey from Kota Kinabalu?+
It takes about two hours by road each way, depending on traffic, with the cruise in the middle. The total trip is around nine hours.
Is it suitable for children?+
Yes for school-age children, with life jackets provided on the boats. Very young children may find the long day and late return difficult.
What should I wear?+
Long, light-coloured clothing, closed shoes and insect repellent, plus a light rain jacket. Keep a small dry bag for your phone and camera.
