Varenna is the most photogenic village on the eastern shore, a tumble of ochre and pink houses above a tiny harbour with a lakeside path that runs along the water. The historic centre is a maze of cobbled lanes and stairways, best explored with the free audio guide the tourist board offers, and the Lovers’ Walk gives a long view across the lake to the Bellagio promontory. The village has two gardens on the water, Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi, and a sheltered feel that keeps it pleasant even in winter. In winter Villa Cipressi’s terraces host a Christmas Garden with lights, and the reflections on the lake in the evening are the village’s signature seasonal sight. Varenna is also the lake’s best transport hub for visitors without a car: it has a railway station on the line from Milan and ferries to Bellagio, Menaggio and the Tremezzo shore.
The route
A village visit takes a couple of hours. Start at the ferry landing, walk the lakefront path to the Lovers’ Walk, climb through the lanes to the church square and finish at Villa Monastero’s gate. If you have more time, walkers can follow the path up to the Castello di Vezio, the hilltop castle above the village, and the short Fiumelatte river nearby, but check opening times before you go, because these seasonal sights may be shut in winter.
Getting there and back
The Varenna-Esino railway station is about nine to ten minutes’ walk from the centre, and a Milan line serves it. Ferries cross to Bellagio, Menaggio and the Tremezzo shore, and car ferries link Varenna with Bellagio and Menaggio. The tourist board’s page lists return sailings to Bellagio on weekday evenings and notes the last boats at weekends, but these are timetable details that change, so check the current Navigazione Laghi timetable before you rely on them.
Making the most of it
Varenna is one of the best bases for a winter trip, because the village stays alive in the off season and Villa Monastero is open Thursday to Monday. Plan lunch at a lakefront restaurant, a stroll after dark to see the lights, and a morning ferry to Bellagio the next day. The village is small, so it is best with one night rather than a long stay.
What to expect
The experience
A free walk through the harbour, lakeside path and lanes of a compact village, with optional paid gardens on the water.
Best time
Late afternoon into the evening in winter, when the lights come on and the reflections fill the harbour.
How long
Two hours covers the village and the Lovers’ Walk, more with a villa visit and lunch.
Tips
Download the free audio guide before you arrive, wear shoes with grip for the cobbles and check ferry times before you cross to Bellagio.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Couples, photographers and train travellers who want a charming base without a car.
- Families
- Easy on foot with the harbour and the garden paths, though the lanes include steps.
- Couples
- One of the most romantic evening walks on the lake, with winter lights and quiet cafés.
- Pair with
- Pair it with Villa Monastero in the same village or a ferry to Bellagio.
- Time needed
- Half a day, or an overnight stay if you want to see the village after dark.
Good questions
What is there to do in Varenna in winter?+
Walk the lakeside path and the Lovers’ Walk, visit Villa Monastero, which is open Thursday to Monday, and see the Christmas Garden at Villa Cipressi.
How do I get to Varenna from Milan?+
By train to Varenna-Esino, then about nine to ten minutes on foot to the village centre.
Can you take a ferry from Varenna to Bellagio?+
Yes, passenger ferries and car ferries cross to Bellagio, with fewer sailings in winter. Check the current timetable and the last return boat.
Is there an audio guide?+
Yes, the tourist board offers a free audio guide for the historic centre on iOS and Android.
Is Varenna free to visit?+
Walking the village and the lakeside is free. Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi charge separate entry fees.
