Hardknott Roman Fort, known to the Romans as Mediobogdum, is among the most dramatically sited ancient monuments in Britain. It stands on a shelf of land high above the River Esk in the western Lake District, with views down Eskdale to the sea and up to the crags of the Scafell range, and its low stone walls, gateways and corner towers make it easy to picture a Roman garrison in this remote valley. The fort was built in the second century to guard the road that linked the port at Ravenglass with the fort at Ambleside, and it was manned by a cohort of soldiers recruited from the Balkans. Today you can walk through the gates, follow the walls, look at the foundations of the commandant's house and the headquarters building, and stroll to the parade ground, a flattened platform in the hillside. Just below the fort lies a bath house, and the whole site is looked after by English Heritage, with free entry and no ticket office. Reaching it requires a drive over Hardknott Pass, a narrow road with gradients of around one in three and tight hairpin bends, which is part of the adventure, though it is not for the nervous.
Why go
The fort is a rare chance to stand in an isolated Roman outpost with almost no one around. The setting is spectacular on a clear day, and the mood is melancholy and powerful on a misty one. It is easy to understand why the Romans chose the site, with a commanding view of the valley and the approaches, and just as easy to wonder what it felt like for a soldier from the Mediterranean or Balkans to spend a winter here.
What to see
The walls and gates have been partly rebuilt, but much of the stonework is original. The parade ground, sited on a flat area just outside the fort, is accessible by a short walk. Information boards explain the layout, and English Heritage also offers an audio guide through its website. The site has no shelter and no facilities, so bring waterproofs, a hat and gloves, and a flask. Allow about an hour, including the walk up from the parking spot and time to take in the view.
The road
Both approaches to the fort use the Wrynose and Hardknott passes, among the steepest and narrowest roads in England. The usual route runs from Ambleside through Little Langdale and over Wrynose Pass, then on over Hardknott into Eskdale, with the fort just below the top on the Eskdale side. In winter the roads can be icy, snow-covered or closed, so check conditions, avoid driving at night or in poor visibility and do not rely on sat nav alone.
Large vehicles and caravans should not attempt it. If you prefer not to drive, a guided day tour that crosses the passes is a good alternative, and the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway lets you see the valley from below, though the fort itself is a walk from Eskdale or a drive.
Making it a day
Pair the fort with Muncaster Castle, the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway and a walk to Stanley Ghyll Force, or with Wasdale, the quietest of the western valleys. Come on a clear, still day, bring layers, and be prepared for the weather to change quickly. As a free sight, the link goes to English Heritage's page, which gives directions, opening information and access notes.
What to expect
The experience
An open-air Roman fort on a high shelf above Eskdale, with walls, gates, foundations and a parade ground, reached by a steep mountain road.
Best time
A clear, dry day with good visibility; avoid icy or foggy conditions on the pass.
How long
About an hour at the fort, with extra time for the drive over the pass.
Tips
Check road conditions, avoid the pass in ice or poor visibility, and bring warm, waterproof clothing because there is no shelter.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers, photographers and confident drivers who want an empty, dramatic sight.
- Families
- Children enjoy exploring the walls and gates, but the pass is steep and the site is exposed, so wrap up and keep them close.
- Couples
- A windswept picnic spot with huge views, best on a clear afternoon.
- Pair with
- Muncaster Castle, the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway and the Eskdale valley walks.
- Time needed
- About an hour at the site, a half day with the drive.
Good questions
Is Hardknott Roman Fort free?+
Yes. Entry is free, and there is no ticket office or visitor centre, so bring everything you need.
How steep is the road?+
Hardknott Pass has gradients of around one in three and tight hairpin bends, so it is one of the most demanding roads in England. Take care, especially in winter.
Is the pass open in winter?+
It can be icy, snowy or closed in winter, so check conditions before you go and have a back-up plan, such as a guided day tour.
Who built the fort?+
The Romans, in the second century, to guard the road between Ravenglass and Ambleside, and it was garrisoned by auxiliary soldiers.
What can I do nearby?+
Visit Muncaster Castle, ride the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, or walk to Stanley Ghyll Force from Dalegarth.
