Limone sul Garda

Limone sul Garda is a small town with a big setting. Steep mountains drop almost straight into the lake, leaving just enough space for a harbour, a cluster of pastel houses and a web of narrow lanes. The name may come from the lemon trees that once grew in terraced gardens here, the northernmost lemon cultivation in the world. The terraces, called limonaie, were sheltered by wooden and stone structures that protected the fruit from the cold, and a few have been preserved as a museum so that visitors can understand the unusual agricultural history. The coastal road that reaches the town, cut into the cliffs with tunnels and bridges, is itself a famous drive, and the first view of the lake from the road is memorable. In the town the harbour and promenade are the focus, with cafes, gelaterias and shops selling lemon products. It is small enough to see in a couple of hours, which makes it ideal as part of a longer tour around the northern lake.

It is worth knowing how the lemon terraces worked. Farmers built stone pillars and wooden frames above the trees, then covered them with panels in winter to trap heat and protect the fruit from frost. The system allowed lemons to grow far north of the usual range, and the fruit was exported to other parts of Europe.

Changing markets and cheaper imports ended the trade, and the terraces fell into disuse, but a few have been restored and now serve as a reminder of the unusual local economy. A short visit to the museum, followed by a coffee or a lemon sorbet on the harbour, is a pleasant way to complete a walk through the town.

For a quieter experience, visit on a weekday outside school holidays, walk the upper lanes first and keep the busy harbour for the end of the day. A light lunch of lake fish on the water makes a fine reward after the climbs and the steps.