If Lyon is the capital of French gastronomy, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is its larder. The covered market has stood on the Cours Lafayette, on the left bank of the Rhône near Part-Dieu, since 1971, and after a renovation from 2004 to 2006 it was renamed in honour of Paul Bocuse, the chef who made Lyon’s cooking world-famous. Around 56 merchants work under one roof across a handful of trades: cheesemakers with towers of Saint-Marcellin and Comté, butchers and charcutiers with rosette and Jésus sausages, fishmongers and oyster bars, bakers and pastry chefs with pink praline tarts, greengrocers, delicatessens and caterers selling quenelles and pâté en croûte. It is a working market used by locals and chefs, but it is also one of the most enjoyable places in the city to eat, because many stalls have counters where you can perch over oysters and a glass of white wine at lunchtime. This page links to the official site of the market’s merchants’ association.
How to visit: the market is at 102 Cours Lafayette in the 3rd arrondissement, about ten minutes’ walk from Part-Dieu station or a short ride from the Presqu’île. It is open from morning to evening from Tuesday to Saturday and on Sunday mornings, but individual stall hours vary, and many merchants rest on Mondays, so check the merchants’ site before you go. Dogs, bikes and scooters are not allowed inside.
What to expect: the aisles are busiest at weekend lunchtimes and in the weeks before Christmas, when oysters and festive specialities fly off the counters. Prices reflect the quality, so treat it as a place for a special lunch or a picnic shop rather than everyday groceries. Several food tours of Lyon start or finish here.
Making the most of it: arrive late in the morning, walk the whole hall first, then pick a counter for oysters or charcuterie and a glass of wine. Buy cheese, saucisson and pralines to take home, and ask for vacuum-packing if you are flying. Sunday late morning is the most sociable time, when families come for oysters and white wine.
What to expect
The experience
A covered market of around 56 specialist food merchants, many with counters for eating oysters, charcuterie and pastries on the spot.
Best time
Late morning from Tuesday to Saturday, or Sunday late morning for the liveliest atmosphere.
How long
One to two hours, including a counter lunch.
Tips
Many merchants close on Mondays, so check the market’s website, and ask for vacuum-packing if you are taking food home.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers who want to taste Lyon’s cheeses, charcuterie, oysters and pastries in one place.
- Families
- Children enjoy the pastry and praline counters; the aisles get crowded, so go early with a stroller.
- Couples
- Share a plate of oysters and a bottle of white wine at a counter on a Sunday morning.
- Pair with
- The Saône dinner cruise in the evening, or an afternoon in Vieux Lyon’s bouchon lanes.
- Time needed
- One to two hours.
Good questions
Where is Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse?+
At 102 Cours Lafayette in the 3rd arrondissement, about ten minutes’ walk from Part-Dieu station. It is on the left bank of the Rhône, east of the Presqu’île.
When is Les Halles de Lyon open?+
It opens from Tuesday to Saturday and on Sunday mornings, but each merchant sets its own hours. Many rest on Mondays, so check the market’s site before going.
Can you eat at Les Halles de Lyon?+
Yes, many stalls have counters and small restaurants where you can eat oysters, charcuterie and cooked dishes. Lunchtime is the busiest time.
What should I buy at Les Halles?+
Look for Saint-Marcellin cheese, rosette sausage, quenelles and pink praline tarts. Pralines and hard cheeses travel best.
Why is it named after Paul Bocuse?+
The market was renamed in 2006 after a renovation, in honour of the chef who made Lyon’s cooking world-famous. The name honours his lifelong championing of Lyon’s producers.
