Curral das Freiras, the Nuns’ Corral, is a village at the bottom of a giant volcanic crater in the heart of Madeira. Steep green walls rise on every side, and until a road was built in the twentieth century the only way in or out was by foot over the mountain passes. According to local tradition, the nuns of the Santa Clara convent in Funchal fled here in 1566 to escape pirate raids, and the valley has carried their memory ever since. Today it is one of the most dramatic and peaceful places on the island, famous for its chestnut trees and for the views down into the bowl from the Eira do Serrado viewpoint, which hangs high above the village on the rim.
What to see
The first stop on most tours is the Eira do Serrado, a viewpoint on the crater rim around a thousand metres above sea level. From the platform you look down into the valley, with the village, terraced fields and church tower far below and the peaks on the other side. On clear days the view is staggering, though cloud often fills the bowl, which adds drama of its own.
The road then winds down to the village, where you can stroll the lanes, visit the church and taste the local specialities, which are built around the chestnut: soup, cake, biscuits, bread and a sweet liqueur. In autumn the village celebrates the chestnut harvest with a festival.
How to go
The valley is a short drive from Funchal, although the road is narrow and twisty, with tight bends and drop-offs. Many visitors prefer a guided 4WD or minibus tour, which includes the Eira do Serrado, other peaks and viewpoints, and a stop in the village.
Hire car drivers should take their time and use the lay-bys. A walking trail leads from the viewpoint down to the village, and from the village you can start longer hikes into the mountains. Those routes are steep and weather-dependent, so check conditions and local advice before setting out.
Making the most of it
Go in the morning, before the cloud builds, and pack a jacket because the bowl can be cool. A slow lunch in the village is the best way to experience its pace, and chestnut soup is the dish to try. If you are visiting in late October or early November, ask about the chestnut festival.
Combine the valley with the Pico do Arieiro or the Cabo Girão skywalk for a full day in the mountains, and bring cash for small village shops. The village is quiet and residential, so keep voices down and respect private land.
Walking options
For those who want to stretch their legs, a path leads from the viewpoint along the crater rim, with spectacular views and a feeling of height. Another route winds down from the village to the viewpoint, a steep climb that rewards effort with huge outlooks.
Walkers can also continue into the surrounding mountains on longer routes towards the central peaks, which are suited to experienced hikers with proper gear and a good weather forecast. Whatever you choose, remember that cloud rolls into the valley quickly, so bring a jacket and keep track of the time.
What to expect
The experience
A guided trip to the hidden crater village of Curral das Freiras, with a stop at the Eira do Serrado viewpoint and time in the village.
Best time
Mornings on clear days, before cloud fills the valley, with autumn adding the chestnut harvest.
How long
Plan on three to five hours, depending on the tour you choose and the viewpoints included.
Tips
Bring a jacket, a camera and some cash for the village, and take care on the narrow road.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who wants a dramatic mountain view and a quieter side of Madeira.
- Families
- A good half-day for families, though the road is twisty and may upset small stomachs.
- Couples
- Slow lunch, chestnut sweets and a view into the crater.
- Pair with
- The Cabo Girão skywalk, Pico do Arieiro or a jeep tour.
- Time needed
- A half-day.
Good questions
Why is it called Curral das Freiras?+
The name means the Nuns’ Corral. Tradition says the nuns of Santa Clara fled to the valley in 1566 to escape pirate raids on Funchal.
What is the Eira do Serrado?+
It is a viewpoint on the rim of the crater, about a thousand metres above sea level, with views straight down to the village.
What food is Curral das Freiras known for?+
The village is known for chestnuts, in soup, cake, biscuits, bread and a sweet liqueur. A local festival celebrates the harvest in autumn.
How far is Curral das Freiras from Funchal?+
It is a short drive, but the road is narrow and twisty, so allow more time than the distance suggests.
Is it better to drive or take a tour?+
A guided tour removes the stress of the road and often includes other viewpoints, while a hire car gives more freedom if you are confident on mountain roads.
