The Mercado dos Lavradores, or Farmers’ Market, is the beating heart of Funchal’s food scene and one of the most colourful places on the island. The building, with its tiled panels and art deco lines, dates from the middle of the twentieth century and is arranged around an open courtyard. On the upper level, farmers and growers sell fruit and vegetables piled in bright pyramids: custard apples, passion fruit in several varieties, mangoes, bananas small and sweet, avocados, physalis, tomato-like tamarillos and the strange, scaly monstera deliciosa, or fruta delicia, which tastes like a mix of pineapple and banana. Flower sellers in traditional dress line the entrance, offering strelitzia, orchids, proteas and anthuriums, and the scent drifts out onto the street. Downstairs, a separate fish hall sells the catch of the day, with enormous tuna and the long, black, sharp-toothed espada, the black scabbard fish that Madeirans fry with banana. The market is lively, loud and slightly chaotic, and it is the best place to taste the island. Trying fruit is part of the experience, and many stalls offer samples, though you should expect to buy something if you taste.
What to expect
Go in the morning, when the market is at its best and the fish stalls are busy. Fruit stalls are on the main floor and around the courtyard, and the fish market is below, with a lively auction-like atmosphere early in the day. Many of the stalls cater to visitors and prices on display can be higher than those in neighbourhood shops, so ask for the price before you taste or buy, and compare a few stalls before choosing.
If you want fruit to take with you, ask the seller to select ripe pieces for eating that day, and look for the smaller, sweeter bananas and the passion fruit that locals buy.
Eating and drinking
There are small food stalls and cafés around the market, and the surrounding streets in the old town have restaurants serving espetada, bolo do caco and fresh fish. Poncha, the local drink made with sugar cane rum, honey and citrus juice, is available in the bars nearby. Some visitors join a guided food tour that includes the market and tastings, which can help explain unfamiliar fruit and give context to the dishes you try. Fish lovers should come early to see the black scabbard fish and tuna being cut and sold.
Practicalities
The market is in the old town, within walking distance of the cable car station, the cathedral and the Zona Velha, so it fits neatly into a morning of sightseeing. It is generally open six days a week and closed on Sundays, with the busiest day being Friday, when farmers come in from the hills, but check opening times before you plan around it.
Bring small notes for purchases, and a bag for souvenirs. Photography is welcomed, but ask before photographing the flower sellers, who are often happy to pose in return for a small purchase.
The market is free to enter, and it is an easy, rewarding stop for every visitor, whether you are a keen cook or just curious. If you enjoy cooking, ask the stallholders how they would eat the fruit, because many are happy to explain which varieties are best raw and which are better in desserts or sauces. A guided market and cooking class is a popular way to turn what you see into a meal, and the surrounding lanes have bakeries where you can buy bolo do caco and honey cake for a picnic.
What to expect
The experience
A covered market hall with fruit, vegetable and flower stalls above and a fish hall below, free to wander.
Best time
Morning, and Friday for the biggest market day, when farmers come down from the hills.
How long
One to one and a half hours, longer if you stop for a snack or poncha.
Tips
Ask prices before tasting, bring small notes, and arrive early to see the fish hall at its busiest.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers and first-timers who want a lively, colourful introduction to the island.
- Families
- Bright stalls and unusual fruit are a hit with children, who can sample passion fruit and custard apple.
- Couples
- Browse together, then sit down for a poncha or a bolo do caco in the nearby old town.
- Pair with
- The Zona Velha old town, the cable car station and a wine lodge tasting.
- Time needed
- A morning.
Good questions
Is the Funchal farmers’ market free to enter?+
Yes, entry is free. You only pay for any fruit, flowers or other goods you buy, and it is worth asking prices before you taste.
When is the best time to visit the Mercado dos Lavradores?+
Morning is best, when stalls are fresh and the fish hall is busy. Friday is traditionally the biggest day, and the market is generally closed on Sundays.
What should I try at the Funchal market?+
Passion fruit, custard apple, small sweet bananas and the fruta delicia are favourites. Fish fans should look for the black scabbard fish, and poncha is available in the bars nearby.
Are the prices at the Funchal farmers’ market high?+
Prices at the stalls aimed at visitors can be higher than in local shops, so ask before you taste or buy and compare a few stalls.
Where is the Mercado dos Lavradores?+
It is in the old town of Funchal, within walking distance of the cable car station, the cathedral and the Zona Velha.
