Tanneries of Bab Debbagh

The tanneries of Bab Debbagh, the Tanners' Gate, are where the leather of the Marrakech souks begins. In walled yards beside the northeastern gate of the Medina, workers move between rows of stone vats filled with lime, pigeon dung, tannins and dyes, treading and turning hides of sheep, goat, cow and camel through a process that takes weeks. The site was placed at the edge of the old city near the river for good reason: the smell is strong, and many visitors are handed a sprig of mint to hold under their nose. The Marrakech-Safi Regional Tourism Council describes the full leather route, which follows the hides from the tannery to Souk Ejjeld, the leather souk, where they are sold, and on through the workshops and the babouche lane, where slippers are stitched, to the boutiques where finished goods are decorated and embroidered. Walking that route, about two kilometers through Souk Semmarine and Souk Jeld to the tannery, is a vivid lesson in how the Medina's crafts depend on one another. The tanneries are less photogenic than the famous ones in Fez, and much of the work happens in the morning, but they are authentic and still working. They are also the scene of Marrakech's most notorious tourist trap: men who announce that the tanneries are closed, that a Berber festival is on only one day, or who lead you to a terrace and then demand a large fee or steer you into an overpriced leather shop. Go with a licensed guide, or go alone, decline unsolicited offers firmly, and agree any fee before entering a terrace.

How to visit: go in the morning, when the tanners are working and the light is good. Take a petit taxi to Bab Debbagh or walk through the northern Medina from the Ben Youssef Madrasa, about twenty minutes. At the gate, you may be offered entry by a man who claims to be a tannery worker; legitimate access is usually through a leather shop overlooking the yards, which expects you to look at its stock. You are not obliged to buy; a small tip for the person who shows you around is fair, and anything more should be agreed in advance.

Buying leather: the shops at the tanneries are not necessarily the cheapest, and quality varies. Look at the stitching, the lining and the smell, which should fade with good finishing. Compare prices in Souk Ejjeld and the fixed-price design shops in Mouassine before committing. Babouches, bags and poufs are the classic buys.

Is it for you? If you have strong reactions to smells, or are tired of hassle, consider a guided Medina walk that includes the tanneries, or skip them. Families with young children may find the vats and smell unpleasant. For photographers and anyone curious about traditional crafts, it is one of the most memorable sights in the city.