Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is one of the great public spaces of Europe, and it costs nothing to enjoy. Built between 1865 and 1877 to celebrate the newly united Kingdom of Italy and named after its first king, it is a vast cross-shaped arcade of shops and cafes under a vaulted roof of iron and glass, joining the Piazza del Duomo to the Piazza della Scala. Its architect, Giuseppe Mengoni, fell to his death from the scaffolding shortly before it was finished, and the triumphal arch facing the cathedral is in some ways his monument. At the centre, the four arms meet beneath an octagonal glass dome, and the floor below is a carpet of mosaics showing the coats of arms of the cities of the new kingdom, while lunettes high above represent the continents. The most famous mosaic is Turin's bull, whose most sensitive spot has been worn into a hole by generations of visitors spinning on their heel on it for luck; join the queue and do it, as everyone does. Milanese call the Galleria il salotto, the living room, and it still works as one: locals cut through it on the way to work, couples stroll it after dinner, and the historic cafes and restaurants under the arcade have served the opera crowd from La Scala for well over a century. The shops are a roll call of Italian fashion, including the original Prada store, opened here in 1913, alongside Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Versace and others, and strict rules keep signage in black and gold to match the architecture. Above the main floor, some of the upper levels hold luxury hotels and private clubs, and the Fondazione Prada's Osservatorio photography space sits under the glass roof. Come by day for the light pouring through the dome, and again at night, when the arcade is lit and nearly empty.

How to enjoy it: the Galleria is open around the clock, and the best visits are at either end of the day. Early in the morning the floor is empty, the light is soft and the only people are delivery riders and early commuters; late at night, after the shops close, the lighting makes the iron and glass glow and the mosaics are easy to see. At midday it is busy, but the people-watching is part of the show. Take in the details: the painted lunettes under the dome, the statues of famous Italians on the facades, the glass roof itself, which was rebuilt after the Second World War when bombs damaged much of the structure.

Eating and drinking: the Galleria's historic venues are part of Milanese life, and a coffee or aperitivo at the bar is a classic experience, but prices for table service under the dome are high, so check the menu first. The best value is often standing at the counter. The Camparino at the Duomo entrance, founded in 1915, is the place to try a Campari-based aperitivo where the drink's family once poured it, and the Marchesi pastry shop on the upper floor serves elegant cakes with a view down into the arcade. For a cheaper snack, the famous fried panzerotti of Luini are a few minutes away on a side street behind the Galleria; expect a queue.

Fitting it in: the Galleria is a natural link in a first morning in Milan. Visit the Duomo and its terraces, cross the square and walk through the Galleria to the Piazza della Scala, where the statue of Leonardo faces the opera house, then continue north into Brera for lunch. Shoppers should note that the Galleria is the showroom, not the bargain basement; for the full fashion experience, walk on to the Quadrilatero della Moda around Via Montenapoleone, ten minutes away. Pickpockets work crowded tourist spaces everywhere, so keep bags zipped, especially around the bull.