Teatro alla Scala

From the outside, La Scala is almost disappointingly plain: a restrained neoclassical facade on a small square, facing a statue of Leonardo. Inside is the most famous opera house in the world. The theatre opened in 1778, designed by Giuseppe Piermarini on the site of the church of Santa Maria alla Scala, which gave it its name, and for nearly two and a half centuries it has defined Italian opera. Rossini, Donizetti and Bellini premiered works here; Verdi's career began and ended here, with Nabucco in 1842 and Otello and Falstaff decades later; Puccini's Madama Butterfly was booed on its first night here before becoming a classic; Toscanini ruled the pit; and Maria Callas made the stage her own in the 1950s. Allied bombs gutted the auditorium in 1943, and the reopening concert under Toscanini in May 1946 was a moment of national rebirth. A major restoration in the early 2000s, with a new stage tower by Mario Botta, gave the theatre modern machinery while keeping its six tiers of boxes and galleries in gold and red. For visitors who are not attending a performance, there are two ways in. The Museo Teatrale alla Scala, entered from the side of the theatre, holds portraits, costumes, instruments and memorabilia from Verdi to Callas, and most visits begin with a look into the auditorium from one of the boxes, unless rehearsals or events prevent it. Guided tours led by the theatre's own guides go further, into the boxes, the foyer and other spaces, on days without rehearsals or performances. And of course there is the real thing: an opera, ballet or concert, which remains surprisingly attainable if you are flexible about seats and dates.

Visiting without a performance: the museum is open most days, and tickets can be bought at the desk or, better, online in advance. The view into the auditorium is the highlight, and it depends on the theatre's schedule; access to the boxes is limited to a few people at a time, and when rehearsals are running the number is lower still or the boxes close. The museum publishes suggested best viewing times on its website, and booking a tour that includes the museum through a platform such as Tiqets gives you a fixed time and a guide. Guided tours of the theatre itself are limited to small groups and do not run on rehearsal or performance days, so they sell out. A complete visit takes about forty-five minutes to an hour.

Seeing a performance: the season traditionally opens on 7 December, the feast of Milan's patron saint, Ambrose, with the glittering Prima, one of the hottest tickets in Europe. Ordinary performances through the year are easier: the official box office releases tickets well ahead, and cheaper seats in the upper galleries, where the true opera fans sit, appear for many shows, though some have restricted views. Same-day and last-minute options exist but change, so check the official ticket office pages. Smart dress is expected in the stalls and boxes, especially at evening performances. If opera is not your thing, ballet and symphonic concerts are a gentler introduction to the same room.

Around La Scala: the Piazza della Scala faces Palazzo Marino, the city hall, and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II opens directly on to it, so a visit fits easily between the Duomo and Brera. The Grand Hotel et de Milan, where Verdi lived for years and where he died, is a few minutes' walk up Via Manzoni, and the historic Caffe Cova and Via Montenapoleone are close by for a post-theatre drink.