Accompong is one of the most remarkable places in Jamaica. High in the hills of St. Elizabeth, at the edge of the rugged limestone wilderness of Cockpit Country, it is a community founded by Maroons, the descendants of Africans who escaped slavery and fought the British to a standstill. Their leader Cudjoe signed a peace treaty in 1739 that granted the Maroons land and a degree of self-government, and Accompong still holds that land today, with its own leadership and traditions. A visit gives a very different view of Jamaican history from the plantation houses along the coast. The day trip we link goes from Montego Bay up into the hills, a scenic and winding drive of around two hours, and spends the day with local guides. Typical stops include the Peace Cave, the old settlement, the sites linked to Cudjoe and the sacred spots, with stories of resistance and survival along the way, and often a taste of Maroon food and music. It is a thoughtful day trip rather than a thrill ride, and it pairs well with a visit to Sam Sharpe Square and Rose Hall to understand how slavery and freedom shaped the island.
How it works
The tour collects you from your Montego Bay hotel and drives into the hills, passing farms and small villages, with the road getting steeper and narrower as you enter Cockpit Country. Local guides from the community lead the walk, explaining the treaty, the guerrilla tactics the Maroons used in the limestone maze and the traditions that survive today, including the abeng, the cow horn once used to send signals. Expect some uphill walking on uneven paths.
What to expect
Accompong is a living community, so treat the visit with respect. Ask before photographing people, buy crafts or food directly from residents if you wish, and follow your guide’s lead at sacred sites. The big annual celebration of Cudjoe’s birthday takes place at the start of each year and draws large crowds, so the town is far busier then than on a normal day.
Making the most of it
Wear sturdy shoes, a hat and sun protection, and carry water and some small cash for crafts and tips. The drive is long and winding, so travellers prone to car sickness may want to sit near the front. Combine the trip with a quieter beach or pool day on either side, since the day is full and the road is demanding.
Planning it into your week
Because the journey is long, treat Accompong as the main event of its day and keep the evening free. Start early to give yourself time on the ground, and bring a light rain layer in the wetter months, as the hills can shower without warning. Travellers who enjoy history will get the most from the day if they read a little beforehand about Cudjoe, Nanny of the Maroons and the wars of the 1730s, since the stories make more sense with a framework.
Ask your guide how the community governs itself today, what the land means to its people and how the annual celebration is organised. Buying crafts or a meal in the village is a direct way to support the people you are visiting, and a small tip for the local guides is always appreciated.
A final tip
Keep your expectations flexible, because a visit to a living community runs on its own time, and the best moments often come from unplanned conversations with the people you meet along the way.
What to expect
The experience
A guided full-day trip from Montego Bay into the hills to the Maroon community of Accompong, with a walking tour led by local guides.
Best time
Dry months from December to April make the hill roads easier, and weekdays are quieter than festival days.
How long
A full day of about eight hours including the winding drive.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and small cash, ask before photographing people and follow your guide at sacred sites.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Curious travellers who want to understand Jamaican history beyond the beach and the plantation houses.
- Families
- Suitable for older children who can handle a long drive and an uphill walk; younger ones may tire.
- Couples
- A meaningful, memorable shared day away from the resort crowd.
- Pair with
- Sam Sharpe Square and Rose Hall Great House, to see the other side of the slavery and freedom story.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
Who are the Maroons?+
The Maroons are descendants of Africans who escaped slavery in Jamaica and formed free communities in the mountains. They fought the British and won recognition through treaties in the 18th century.
Where is Accompong?+
Accompong is in the hills of St. Elizabeth parish at the edge of Cockpit Country, about two hours from Montego Bay by road.
Is it suitable for children?+
Older children usually enjoy it, but the road is long and winding and the walk is uphill in places, so it is hard going for very young ones.
Can I take photographs?+
Yes, in most places, but ask before photographing people and follow your guide’s advice at sacred or private sites.
What should I bring?+
Bring sturdy shoes, sun protection, water, insect repellent and small cash for crafts, snacks and tips.
