Shiojiri Wine Valley

Wine is not the first thing most visitors associate with Japan, but the Kikyogahara plateau near Shiojiri has a long reputation among Japanese drinkers. The high, dry climate, cool nights and sandy soils suit grapes such as Merlot, and several wineries have won recognition for bottles from the area. The valley sits a short train ride (roughly 15 to 20 minutes) from Matsumoto, so it combines easily with a visit to the castle or a stop on the way to Narai-juku. Vineyards slope down toward the railway, with the Alps visible on clear days, and the walk between wineries is flat and pleasant. Tours here focus on small, family-run producers and a few larger cellars.

A guided walk links two or three stops, where you taste several wines, learn about growing conditions and see the cellars. Some wineries offer vineyard views from a terrace, light food pairings such as cheese or local sausages, and the chance to try wines you cannot easily find outside Japan. The style tends to be elegant and balanced rather than heavy, with food-friendly acidity, and the white wines made from Niagara and Chardonnay can be a surprise. Many wineries now offer English explanations, but a guide helps with the story behind each estate.

Visiting is easiest between spring and autumn, when vines are green and terraces are open. Harvest in September and October is the busiest and most interesting time, with picking and pressing under way at some estates. In winter, the vineyards are bare and the cellars quiet, but tastings still run, and the cold, clear air gives wonderful mountain views.

Because it is a drinking trip, avoid driving, and use the train and walking routes or a hired driver. Some wineries limit visits to weekends or by reservation, so book ahead and confirm opening days, since small producers close on certain weekdays.

Getting there is simple. Take the Chuo line from Matsumoto to Shiojiri, then walk or use a taxi to the wineries; the nearest ones are a flat walk of roughly 30 minutes from the station. The same line continues to Narai-juku, so a day can combine wine in the morning and a Nakasendo stroll in the afternoon.

Wear comfortable shoes, carry water and sunscreen in summer, and remember that tasting fees and bottle prices vary by winery. If you are travelling with a non-drinker, the area also has apple and grape picking and cafes with local juice. Combined with the sake tasting in Nagano city, a wine day gives a good overview of how seriously the region takes its drinks.

A few extras help you plan. Ask your guide or the winery about the grape varieties and vintages being poured, and try a comparison of two vintages if offered. Some estates sell wines only at the cellar door, so it is the best chance to buy a bottle you will not find elsewhere. If you travel with a non-drinker, ask about grape juice or cider, and look out for fruit stalls and cafes in the area.

Check the last trains back to Matsumoto before you settle in, and arrange a taxi from the winery if needed. A hat, sunscreen and water make the walk comfortable in summer, and a warm jacket helps on cool autumn afternoons.