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Japan

Nagano

Nagano is the high-mountain heart of Honshu: a temple city built around one of Japan's great Buddhist halls, a prefecture of Alps and onsen towns, and the home of the snow monkeys that soak in steaming pools while snow falls around them.

This guide covers the essentials, from Zenko-ji and the Jigokudani monkey park to Matsumoto's black castle, the alpine valley of Kamikochi, the powder of Hakuba and Shiga Kogen, the hot-spring streets of Nozawa and Shibu, the shrines of Togakushi, Hokusai's town of Obuse and the Tateyama Kurobe route across the roof of Japan. It also covers the sake, soba, oyaki dumplings and wine that make eating here part of the trip, plus ten hotels in Nagano city, Matsumoto, Hakuba, Yudanaka and Nozawa Onsen and six planning guides.

Don't miss

Things to do in Nagano

Hand-picked: every experience here has strong traveler reviews and a verified booking link.

Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park

Wild Japanese macaques soak in steaming hot-spring pools while snow falls around them, reached by a forest walk from Kanbayashi Onsen. The signature image of Nagano, best seen in the snowy months.

Half day to full day$$Get tickets →

Zenko-ji Temple

One of Japan's most revered Buddhist temples, built around a hidden Buddha image said to be the country's oldest, with a pitch-black underground corridor, dawn services and a lively approach street. The cultural heart of Nagano city.

2 to 3 hours$Get tickets →

Matsumoto Castle

One of Japan's few surviving original castle keeps, a black-and-white National Treasure with steep stairs, a moon-viewing room and the Alps behind it. Nicknamed Crow Castle, and Nagano's best-loved historical landmark.

2 to 3 hours$$Get tickets →

Kamikochi Alpine Valley

A car-free mountain valley in the Northern Alps, with a glass-clear river, Kappa Bridge, Taisho Pond and flat boardwalk walks beneath the Hotaka peaks. One of the finest day trips from Matsumoto in the warm months.

Full day$$Get tickets →

Hakuba Valley and Happo-ike Pond

Japan's best-known alpine resort valley: world-class powder and Olympic ski history in winter, and in summer cable cars, wildflowers and the hike to Happo-ike Pond. A two-season mountain base an hour from Nagano.

Full day or overnight$$$Get tickets →

Togakushi Shrines and Ninja Village

Five mountain shrines threaded along forest paths, an avenue of towering cedars, a ninja museum and some of Japan's most famous soba. A short bus ride from Nagano city into sacred woodland.

Half day to full day$$Get tickets →

Obuse and the Hokusai Museum

A small chestnut town where the great ukiyo-e master Katsushika Hokusai spent his last years painting, with a museum of his work, a temple ceiling he painted, sake breweries and lanes made for strolling.

Half day$$Get tickets →

Matsushiro Samurai Town

The former castle town of the Sanada clan, with preserved samurai residences, a feudal school and a villa garden. Quiet streets and real history, a short bus ride from Nagano city.

Half day$$Get tickets →

Narai-juku Nakasendo Post Town

A one-kilometre street of preserved wooden inns and shops on the old Nakasendo highway, once known as Narai of a thousand houses. The best-kept post town in the Kiso Valley, an easy day trip from Matsumoto.

Half day$$Get tickets →

Nozawa Onsen Village

A steep mountain village with thirteen free public bathhouses, steaming streets, wooden ryokan and a ski area above. One of the most authentic hot-spring and snow villages in Japan.

Half day to overnight$$Get tickets →

Shibu Onsen and Yudanaka Hot-Spring Towns

Nine historic bathhouses, a wooden lantern-lit street and a ryokan scene that has barely changed in decades, a short ride from the snow monkeys. The classic place to soak after a day with the macaques.

Half day to overnight$$Get tickets →

Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route

A one-way crossing of the Northern Alps by trolley bus, cable car, ropeway and tram, past Kurobe Dam and the snow-wall corridor. A bucket-list day trip, open only in the warm months.

Full day$$$Get tickets →

Where to stay

Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.

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Hotel Metropolitan Nagano

Nagano Station Area

A station-side city hotel in Nagano, the practical first choice for rail travellers heading to the snow monkeys, Matsumoto or Hakuba, with Zenko-ji a bus ride or a walk up Chuo-dori.

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Nagano Tokyu REI Hotel

Central Nagano

A dependable mid-range city hotel in central Nagano, well placed for the station, the Chuo-dori approach to Zenko-ji and evenings in the izakaya streets.

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Hotel Kokusai 21 Nagano

Central Nagano

A long-established Nagano city hotel with a broad range of rooms, popular with groups and families who want space and a central address.

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Hotel Buena Vista

Central Matsumoto

A full-service tower hotel in central Matsumoto, a short trip from the castle and the old streets, and the most comfortable base for Kamikochi and the Alps.

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Tabino Hotel Matsumoto

Matsumoto Centre

A straightforward, good-value business hotel in Matsumoto for travellers who want a clean room and an easy start to castle, old town and Alps days.

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Hotel Sierra Resort Hakuba

Hakuba Valley

A resort-style stay in Hakuba valley, set up for ski weeks in winter and hiking weekends in summer, with the lifts, shops and onsen soaks close at hand.

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Hakuba Highland Hotel

Hakuba Valley

A mid-range mountain hotel in the Hakuba valley, a straightforward choice for skiers, hikers and families who want a warm room and a short ride to the lifts.

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Courtyard by Marriott Hakuba

Hakuba Valley

An international-chain hotel in the Hakuba valley, a familiar, comfortable choice for travellers who want predictable standards and a modern room after a day in the snow.

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Shibu Hotel

Yamanouchi, Shibu and Yudanaka

A hot-spring stay in the Yamanouchi valley near Shibu Onsen and Yudanaka, the practical base for the snow monkeys and an evening in the lantern-lit lanes.

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Ryokan Sakaya

Nozawa Onsen Village

A traditional ryokan in Nozawa Onsen, with tatami rooms, hot-spring baths and a place in the village's steaming lanes. A true Japanese inn stay for a night in the snow.

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Nagano guides

If you like Nagano, try