Suwa Taisha and Lake Suwa

Suwa Taisha is a family of four shrines arranged around Lake Suwa, in the heart of Nagano Prefecture, and it is among the most ancient Shinto sites in Japan. Branch shrines dedicated to the Suwa deity are found across the country, and the original is divided into the Upper Shrine, with its Honmiya and Maemiya, and the Lower Shrine, with its Akimiya and Harumiya. The buildings are not as ornate as the shrines of Nikko or Kyoto, but their age, setting and unusual traditions make them deeply atmospheric. The shrine is best known for the Onbashira festival.

Held every six years in spring according to the traditional count, it involves felling enormous fir trees in the mountains and hauling them down to the shrines, where teams of men ride the logs down steep slopes in the famous kiotoshi event before raising them as pillars at the corners of each shrine. The festival is often described as one of the most thrilling and dangerous in Japan, and the pillars standing at the shrines make the festival visible even when it is not taking place. The most recent festival was held in 2022, and the next is due in 2028, so confirm the dates and ticketing for the cycle you plan around.

A visit usually links all four shrines, which are spread across the northern and southern shores of the lake. Honmiya at the upper shrine is the most atmospheric, with its covered corridors and old stone lanterns, and the Lower Shrine's Akimiya has a giant camphor tree and a famous spring-fed hot water spout in the nearby town.

A guided walk explains the stories behind the huge pillars, the deity of wind and water, and the long history of the shrine's priestly families. Walking between all four takes most of a day, though buses and taxis can shorten it.

The lakeshore town of Kamisuwa is known for its hot springs, and public foot baths and bathhouses near the station make a restful finish after temples. Suwa is also a sake town, and local breweries offer tastings that pair well with a shrine day. The city is around 50 minutes from Matsumoto by limited express and about two hours from Tokyo, so it fits easily into a route across Nagano.

Visit in spring for the Onbashira years, in summer for fireworks over the lake, and in winter for the chance of seeing the lake freeze and form pressure ridges. Respect shrine etiquette, bow at the gate, and avoid photography in worship areas.

A few extras help you plan a smooth visit. The four shrines are several kilometres apart, so decide in advance whether to use buses, taxis or a rental bicycle between them. Look for the huge pillars at each corner of the shrine grounds, and the old stone paths and shaded groves that give each shrine its character.

Carry small change for offerings and for the foot baths near the station. In summer, the lake fireworks draw large crowds, so book lodging early if you plan to attend. In winter, ask locally whether the lake has frozen, since the ice ridges are a rare sight that depends on the cold.