Path of the Gods

The Sentiero degli Dei earns its name. This ancient mule track runs along the mountainside high above the Amalfi Coast, linking the village of Bomerano, a hamlet of Agerola in the Lattari Mountains, with Nocelle, a tiny settlement perched above Positano. For most of its length it follows the cliff at several hundred metres above the sea, past terraced vineyards and lemon groves, shepherds' huts and caves, with views that sweep from the coast below to Capri on the horizon. Walked in the usual direction, from Bomerano to Nocelle, it is mostly downhill or level, with a few short climbs and rocky stretches: about 7.8 kilometres and three to four hours at a relaxed pace with photo stops. From Nocelle you can descend to Positano by a staircase of around 1,500 steps, a knee-testing half hour or more that ends at the top of the town, or take the small local bus down. Positano then rewards you with a swim, a drink on the beach and a boat or bus home. The path is free and needs no ticket or permit. It is not technical, and anyone with reasonable fitness and a head for heights can do it, but it is exposed in places, with drops and no railings, rough stone underfoot and little shade. Weather matters: after heavy rain sections can be slippery or briefly closed by landslides, and in summer heat an early start is essential. In return, few walks anywhere in Europe offer such sustained beauty for so little effort.

Getting to the start: take the SITA bus from Amalfi (Piazza Flavio Gioia) up to Agerola and get off at Bomerano, about forty minutes; buy tickets at a tabacchi before boarding. From Positano or Sorrento you change in Amalfi, so allow time. In season a seasonal shuttle has also run from Amalfi to Agerola. Drivers can park in Bomerano, though street spaces fill early in summer. Shoulder-season and winter timetables are thinner, so check the latest bus times at Amalfi bus station or on the SITA website, and plan to finish well before dusk, which comes before five in November.

What to bring: proper walking shoes with grip, not sandals; at least a litre and a half of water per person in warm weather; sun protection and a hat; snacks or a picnic (Agerola is famous for its fiordilatte mozzarella and bread, perfect for a trail lunch); and a charged phone with an offline map. There are a couple of seasonal kiosks along the way and at Nocelle, but do not count on them in winter. The trail is not suitable for buggies or very young children, and people with vertigo may find a few edges uncomfortable. Dogs must be leashed.

When to go: spring and autumn are ideal, with wildflowers in April and May and soft, clear light in October and early November. Summer is hot and busy, so start by eight. In winter the path can be gloriously empty on clear days but muddy and occasionally closed after storms; check local notices and the forecast. Guided walks with transfers from Sorrento and Positano exist for those who prefer not to juggle buses. Whichever way you do it, finish with a swim or a drink in Positano and the satisfaction of having seen the Amalfi Coast the way it was meant to be seen — from above.