Lungomare / Santa Lucia

Eurostars Hotel Excelsior

★★★★★

The Hotel Excelsior is one of the historic grand hotels of the Naples waterfront, and it occupies arguably the finest position of them all: on Via Partenope, directly opposite Castel dell'Ovo and Borgo Marinari, with Vesuvius rising across the bay and the islands of Capri and Ischia on the horizon. It opened at the end of January 1908, at the height of the Belle Époque, and its history tracks the city's: it served as a Red Cross headquarters in the First World War, as a hospital and then as a headquarters for American troops in the Second, and reopened in 1947 with the elegant interiors it is known for. For decades it was a haunt of actors, writers and artists visiting Naples. Today it is run by the Spanish Eurostars group and keeps its classic style: high ceilings, chandeliers, marble and period furniture in the public rooms. There are around 122 rooms, including some twenty suites, and the ones to book are those facing the sea, with views of the castle and the bay. The signature space is La Terrazza, the rooftop restaurant and roof garden on the top floor, serving Mediterranean cuisine with one of the best views in the city; even if you do not dine there, a drink on the roof at sunset is memorable. The hotel also has a bar, a gym and meeting rooms with views, and breakfast is served daily. The Lungomare promenade is right outside, Borgo Marinari's seafood restaurants are across the road, Piazza del Plebiscito and the Royal Palace are a short walk, and the hydrofoil port for the islands is nearby. Fit: couples, first-timers who want the classic bay view, and travellers who prefer the seafront's calm to the historic centre's buzz.

Why choose it: you get the classic Naples grand-hotel experience and the postcard view at a price that is often below the most famous names along the same street. The Grand Hotel Vesuvio next door is the more luxurious, more expensive choice; the Excelsior offers a similar outlook with a more traditional, slightly old-school feel.

Room craft: pay for a sea-view room; it is the point of staying here, and city-view rooms lose the magic. Upper floors give the broadest views over the castle and bay. Book a table at La Terrazza for a sunset dinner early in your stay, or at least go up for a drink. Some guests find décor in standard rooms classic rather than modern, so set expectations accordingly.

Practicals: Via Partenope 48, on the Lungomare in the Santa Lucia district. Parking is through a nearby garage at a daily fee, so most guests arrive by taxi. The historic centre is about twenty minutes on foot or a short taxi ride; Molo Beverello for the island ferries is close by. Check-in is in the afternoon and check-out around midday. Choose it for the waterfront, the views and the history; choose a historic-centre hotel if your priority is museums and pizza on your doorstep.