Negril is a good place to eat. The island’s traditions of jerk, curry, seafood and fresh fruit all meet here, and the setting, whether a beach table or a cliffside terrace, adds to the pleasure. You can eat very well on a modest budget, and the best dishes are often the simplest. Here is a guide to what to look for and how to order.
Jerk
Jerk chicken and pork are the island’s signature dishes, marinated in pimento (allspice), scotch bonnet pepper and spices and cooked slowly over pimento wood or charcoal. Roadside jerk stands in Negril serve it chopped and wrapped in foil with bread or festival, a sweet fried dumpling. Expect heat from the pepper, and ask for the sauce on the side if you are cautious. The smoky flavour and tender meat make it a must-try.
Seafood
Fresh fish, conch, shrimp and, in season, lobster are served at beach restaurants and cliffside grills. Escovitch fish, fried and topped with spicy pickled vegetables, is a classic. Steamed fish, fish tea (a light soup) and grilled snapper are also popular. Lobster has a closed season in spring, so ask what is available. Booby Cay and the West End offer informal seafood meals in memorable settings.
Everyday favourites
Try ackee and saltfish, Jamaica’s national dish, usually eaten at breakfast with fried dumplings, boiled banana or breadfruit. Curry goat, oxtail and stew peas appear on lunch menus, often with rice and peas, which is rice cooked with coconut milk and beans. Patties, flaky pastry filled with spiced beef, chicken or vegetables, are a perfect snack. Fresh fruit, from mango and papaya to pineapple and soursop, is sold on the roadside.
Ital food
Rastafari ital cuisine is plant-based and made from natural ingredients, often cooked without salt and meat. Look for ital stews, vegetable curries, fresh juices and fruit plates. It is a good choice for vegetarians and vegans, and a farm or herb tour can include an ital meal.
Drinks
Red Stripe is the national beer, light and cold. Rum is everywhere, in rum punch, daiquiris and cocktails, and Appleton Estate rums are widely available. Fresh coconut water, sorrel (a hibiscus drink at Christmas), ginger beer and Blue Mountain coffee are worth trying. Order a rum punch at sunset and you will understand why people love Negril.
Where to eat
Beach bars along Seven Mile Beach serve lunch and sunset drinks, with plates of jerk, fish and chips and salads. The West End has cliffside terraces with seafood and cocktails, including the famous Rick’s Café, where the food is secondary to the setting. Resorts have a wide choice of restaurants, and all-inclusive guests can mix on-site dining with an occasional meal out. Small local restaurants, jerk centres and street vendors offer the best value.
Tips
Prices vary widely, so check menus before ordering and ask whether service is included. Cash is useful at small stands. Drink bottled or filtered water, wash fruit and choose busy stalls with high turnover. If you have allergies, say so clearly and ask how dishes are prepared. A little curiosity goes a long way, and vendors are usually happy to explain their food.
A sample day of eating
Start with ackee and saltfish or fruit and coffee at your hotel, then snack on a patty or fresh fruit mid-morning. Have lunch at a beach bar with jerk chicken or fish, and enjoy an afternoon coconut water. At sunset, order a rum punch or a Red Stripe, then eat dinner at a West End restaurant or a beach grill. End the day with a late snack of roasted corn or a sweet treat from a vendor.
Cooking and learning
If you love food, join a farm tour to see ingredients growing, or ask your hotel about cooking classes and market visits. Understanding the spices and techniques will help you appreciate your meals and may inspire dishes to try at home. Local cooks are proud of their recipes and usually happy to share tips.
Dietary needs
Vegetarians and vegans will find ital food, fruit, vegetable stews and rice and peas widely available, while those who avoid pork or shellfish should ask about ingredients, since stocks and sauces may include them. Spice levels vary, and kitchens will usually reduce the pepper on request. Resorts are accustomed to allergies and special diets, so inform them in advance for the smoothest experience.
