Prince of Wales Hotel

The Prince of Wales Hotel is the luxury choice for travelers who would rather wake up in a nineteenth-century town than above a casino, and it is our pick for a romantic or grown-up Niagara trip. It stands in the heart of the old town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, steps from Queen Street, the beautifully preserved town where the Niagara River meets Lake Ontario, about twenty to thirty minutes' drive north of the falls along the Niagara Parkway. The hotel dates from the 1860s and has grown over the years into a full-service luxury property while keeping its Victorian character: antiques, floral fabrics, chandeliers, fireplaces and a drawing room where afternoon tea is an institution. Rooms are individually decorated in a classic English country style, some with fireplaces or canopy beds, and the hotel has a spa, a fine-dining room and a more casual bar. The setting is the attraction. Queen Street's boutiques, cafes and historic buildings are outside the door, the town's tree-lined residential streets and lakeshore are a short stroll away, and the wineries of the Niagara-on-the-Lake area, known for their icewine and cool-climate wines, are a short drive or bike ride. The town is also home to the Shaw Festival, a major repertory theatre company, whose theatres are within walking distance of the hotel. The falls themselves require a drive or a tour, so this is not the base for those who want to see the cataract every hour, but for a mix of falls, wine and history, staying here and visiting the falls by day is a far more relaxing way to do Niagara. Rates are among the highest in the region, especially in summer and on festival weekends; the quieter off-season can bring better value, with the town lit for the holidays in December.

Niagara-on-the-Lake was the first capital of Upper Canada and was burned during the War of 1812, then rebuilt, which is why its main street has such a coherent nineteenth-century look. The Prince of Wales grew from a Victorian inn into the town's grand hotel and is now part of a small group of local luxury properties. It has the feel of an English country hotel, with a level of polish and service that the falls area's big chains cannot match.

Living in it: book a room in the historic part of the hotel for the most character, or ask about larger rooms and suites for a special occasion. Afternoon tea in the drawing room is a must, even for non-guests, and should be reserved ahead. The spa is a good rainy-day retreat. The dining room is the formal option; for something more relaxed, the town has plenty of cafes and bistros within a few minutes' walk. Check the Shaw Festival calendar when planning, as theatre nights and festival weekends drive demand for rooms. In the off-season, the town is calmer and the hotel's fireplaces and holiday decorations come into their own.

Base math: from Niagara-on-the-Lake, drive the Niagara Parkway south to the falls, stopping at the Butterfly Conservatory, the Niagara Glen and, in season, the Whirlpool Aero Car on the way, and park near Table Rock for Journey Behind the Falls and the Power Station. Old Fort Niagara is across the river on the American side, visible from the town's shoreline. Spend the afternoon at a winery or two and come back to Queen Street for dinner. For those who want the falls in the window, Fallsview is the answer; for those who want the whole region at a slower pace, this is the most elegant base in Niagara.