Étretat is the most dramatic piece of coastline in Normandy: white chalk cliffs and flint layers cut into arches and a sea stack, with a pebble beach and a small town between them. The formations on either side of the town include the Aval cliff and arch, the Amont cliff, the Courtine, the Manneporte, the Roc Vaudieu and the Aiguille de Belval. The writer Guy de Maupassant imagined a ship with all its sails unfurled passing through the Manneporte arch. A grand staircase climbs from the town centre to the clifftop chapel of Notre-Dame de la Garde, which is closed to the public but can be photographed from outside. The GR 21 coastal path runs along the cliffs, and the Jardins d'Étretat on the eastern cliff give a view of the needle. Erosion makes the edges dangerous, so stay well back. It is about two hours from Bayeux, and a long day trip.
How it works
The cliffs, the beach and the paths are free to walk, so the cost is travel and parking. Free parking is available at the village entrance on the route de Criquetot-l'Esneval, with a footpath to the town, and parking closer in can be hard to find. From April to early November there are combined train and coach tickets from Paris, and out of season you take a train to Fécamp or Le Havre and then a coach. Those staying in Bayeux will usually drive.
What to expect
Steep steps and slopes on both cliffs, exposed paths and strong wind. The best views come early in the morning or in the evening, when it is quieter. Weather changes quickly on this coast, and a bright morning can turn to rain, so bring waterproofs and shoes with grip. Stay on the marked paths and keep clear of the cliff edge, because erosion makes the edges unstable.
Making the most of it
Walk up one cliff for the view back over the arches, then spend time on the beach and in the town for lunch. The coastal section of the GR 21 from Étretat towards La Poterie-Cap-d'Antifer is the walk the tourism board recommends. Combine Étretat with Honfleur on a long day, or base yourself near Honfleur for two days of the Alabaster Coast and the Seine estuary.
What to expect
The experience
A free self-guided visit: walk the pebble beach and climb one of the cliffs for the views over the arches and the needle.
Best time
Early morning or evening for quieter paths and softer light.
How long
Three to five hours, plus about two hours each way from Bayeux.
Tips
Stay well back from the cliff edge, wear shoes with grip and bring a windproof layer.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Walkers and photographers who want Normandy's most dramatic coastline.
- Families
- Fine for children who can manage steps, but keep them well back from the edges.
- Couples
- Walk the cliffs at sunset, then dine in town.
- Pair with
- Honfleur, on a long day or a two-day coast trip.
- Time needed
- A long day from Bayeux.
Good questions
Are the Étretat cliffs free to visit?+
The cliffs, the beach and the paths are free to walk. Parking in town may be paid, and free parking is available at the village entrance.
Is it safe to walk on the cliffs?+
Yes on the marked paths, but erosion makes the cliff edges dangerous. Stay well back from the edge.
Can I visit the chapel on the cliff?+
Notre-Dame de la Garde is closed to the public, but you can photograph it from outside.
How far is Étretat from Bayeux?+
About two hours by car, so it is a long day trip. Many visitors combine it with Honfleur.
What is the best time of day?+
Early morning or evening, when it is quieter and the light is softer.
