Cape Flattery

Cape Flattery is the end of the road, and the end of the map. At the far northwestern tip of the lower 48 states, where the Strait of Juan de Fuca meets the open Pacific, a boardwalk and trail of about 1.5 miles round trip leads from a small parking area through dense Sitka spruce and cedar forest to a series of viewing platforms on the clifftops. Below are sea caves booming with surf, kelp beds and rock outcrops covered in birds. Offshore, Tatoosh Island rises from the water with its historic lighthouse, and on clear days you can see all the way across the strait. The land belongs to the Makah Tribe, and the path has been carefully built and maintained by the community.

Reaching the cape takes commitment. From Port Angeles it is about two hours via Highway 112, a winding road that follows the strait through logging country and small communities such as Clallam Bay and Sekiu. The village of Neah Bay lies at the end of the road, and the trailhead is a few miles beyond.

You need a Makah Recreation Pass to park at the trailhead and at other tribal beaches, which you can buy at local shops in Neah Bay. Plan to buy it before you drive to the trail, and carry it in your vehicle.

The trail itself is short but not totally flat. Sections are cedar planks and wood steps, which can be slippery in the wet, and boardwalks run over boggy sections. Four lookouts offer views of the sea caves, rocks and island. Spring and summer bring nesting seabirds, and you might see sea otters, harbor seals and even whales, especially gray whales moving through in spring. Keep to the trail and stay behind fences, as the cliffs are unstable and the drop is steep.

In Neah Bay, take time to visit the Makah Cultural and Research Center, a first-rate museum that displays artifacts from the Ozette village excavation, including cedar baskets, whaling gear and tools preserved by a mudslide centuries ago. It tells the story of the Makah as whalers and sea hunters and is one of the best museums on the peninsula. Local cafes and shops sell food and gifts, and the harbor is busy with fishing boats. Be respectful of the community, and ask before photographing people.

Pairing Cape Flattery with the Lake Ozette hike makes a rewarding two-day trip into the remote northwest corner. Bring fuel, snacks and layers, as services thin out beyond Sekiu and cell coverage can disappear. Weather can be foggy or windy at any time, and if the cape is socked in, the museum and a seafood meal in Neah Bay make a good backup plan.

Weather and timing deserve a note. The northwest tip is one of the foggiest and stormiest spots in the state, and winter gales can make the clifftop path wet and the visit short, though storm watching has its own appeal for well-dressed visitors. Summer mornings can be wrapped in marine layer that clears by midday.

Tides affect the sea caves below, which boom loudest at high tide. If you are traveling with children, hold hands near the platforms, and make sure everyone stays behind the railings; photos are never worth a fall onto the rocks below.