Balcones del Calafate

The balconies of El Calafate are the natural lookouts on the hills that rise behind and around the town, and a 4x4 excursion is the easiest way to reach them. The vehicles leave from town, follow dirt tracks up onto the ridges and stop at a string of viewpoints where the land falls away to the milky blue of Lago Argentino, the flat gold of the steppe and, on a clear day, the snow line of the Andes beyond. A guide drives, points out landmarks, explains how the lake and the surrounding valleys were shaped by ice, and watches for wildlife such as hares, foxes, condors and the rheas that cross the steppe. Because the trip is short, it fits neatly into the gaps in an itinerary. Many travellers choose the morning departure for clean light and still air, others prefer the evening version for long shadows and warm colour, and photographers often take both. The tour typically lasts around three to four hours, including stops for photographs and a short walk or two. It is not a hard-core off-road adventure, more of a gentle, scenic drive that gives you the geography of the area before you head out to the famous glaciers.

The appeal is perspective. From the town streets, El Calafate looks small and the lake looks like a pond, but from the balconies you see how the settlement sits on a shelf between an enormous body of water and an even bigger expanse of steppe. You can pick out the bay where flamingos and other waterbirds gather, the long line of the shore road and the points where the Andes begin their ascent.

A good guide will explain the weather as well, including why the wind is so constant and how the rain shadow of the mountains shapes the dry plateau you are driving across. Spring is a particularly attractive season, with fresh snow on the peaks and clear, cold air.

Practicalities are straightforward. Pickup is normally from your hotel, vehicles are shared with a small group, and a warm layer and windproof jacket are essential on the exposed ridgelines, even when the town below feels mild. Wear shoes with grip for the short walks, bring sunglasses and sun cream, and keep your camera strap secure when the wind picks up.

The roads are unsealed, so the ride can be a little bumpy, and anyone with back problems should mention it when booking. Departure times change with the season and the sun, so check the schedule rather than assuming a fixed hour.

Think about where it sits in your trip. It is a good first-day activity because it helps you get your bearings, and it makes a great consolation prize if heavy cloud keeps you away from the mountains. It is also one of the more affordable experiences in the region, so it suits travellers who want a taste of the landscape without committing a full day.

If you want something more active, compare it with the horseback outing on Cerro Frías, and if you want a longer view of the ice, add a boat day. Whichever you choose, the balconies reward patience, because the light on the steppe changes minute by minute.