Powell's City of Books is the one place every Portland visitor seems to end up, and it deserves the pilgrimage even if you think you do not have time for a bookstore. It fills an entire city block on the edge of the Pearl District, at Burnside and 10th Avenue, and is widely described as the largest independent new-and-used bookstore in the world. The trick that makes it work is the shelving: new and used copies of the same title sit side by side, so you can choose a crisp hardcover or a cheaper secondhand copy in the same spot. The store is organized into nine color-coded rooms — Green, Blue, Orange, Rose, Purple, Red, Gold, Pearl and Coffee — and more than 3,500 sections, and the free paper map at the entrances is not a gimmick; you will need it. The Rose Room holds children's and young-adult books, the Gold Room is home to science fiction, mystery and genre fiction, the Pearl Room upstairs houses art and architecture and hosts author readings in the Basil Hallward Gallery, and the Rare Book Room, open daily in the afternoon hours, displays signed first editions and collectible volumes that draw bibliophiles from around the world. The Guilder Café inside the store serves coffee and pastries for those who settle in for the long haul. The store is open daily from morning until evening, admission is free, and dozens of authors read here every month. The used-book buying counter keeps limited weekend hours and its program has changed recently, so check the store's guidance before bringing books to sell. Expect crowds on rainy weekends and during holiday shopping season — which is, of course, exactly when most people want to be here.
Powell's began in 1971, when Michael Powell opened a used bookstore in Chicago and his father, Walter, opened one in Portland soon after; the family business grew into the block-sized store that is now as much a civic landmark as a shop. Its influence on Portland is hard to overstate: it anchors the north end of downtown, gives the Pearl District much of its foot traffic, and has become a symbol of the city's bookish, rain-friendly culture. Look up as you walk: the pillar of books at the entrance, the staff recommendation shelves with handwritten cards, and the Rare Book Room's glass cases are as much a part of the experience as anything you buy.
Strategy for a first visit: pick up a map at the Couch Street and 11th Avenue entrance or the Burnside entrance and decide on two or three rooms rather than trying to see them all. Book lovers head first for the Gold Room for fiction or the Rare Book Room; families go straight to the Rose Room; architecture and design fans climb to the Pearl Room. Check the events calendar before your trip, because a reading in the upstairs gallery can be the highlight of an evening. Store pickup is available if you order online, and staff will help you track down a specific title quickly. If you are flying home, remember that books are heavy; the store can ship purchases.
Practicalities: street parking around the store is metered during the day and free at other times, and the Brewery Blocks garage and SmartPark garages are nearby, though the Portland Streetcar and MAX make a car unnecessary. Two accessible parking spaces are just outside the Orange Room entrance, and bike racks line the north and east sides. Pair the visit with a stroll through the Pearl District's galleries, coffee shops and restaurants, the Lan Su Chinese Garden a short walk east in Old Town Chinatown, or the food carts at The Cart Blocks near the North Park Blocks. On a gray Portland day, there is no better shelter in the city.
What to expect
The experience
A block-sized independent bookstore with new and used books shelved together, nine color-coded rooms, a Rare Book Room, an upstairs reading gallery and an in-store café.
Best time
Weekday mornings for space; evenings for author events; any rainy afternoon if you do not mind company.
How long
An hour for a focused browse; half a day for true book lovers.
Tips
Grab the free map at the entrance and pick two or three rooms. Check the events calendar for readings. Visit the Rare Book Room during its afternoon hours. Ask about shipping if you buy heavily.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Readers, rainy days and anyone who wants the most Portland hour possible.
- Families
- Great: the Rose Room's children's and young-adult section is huge and easy to lose an hour in.
- Couples
- A perfect slow date — split up, then trade finds over coffee at the café.
- Pair with
- A Pearl District coffee crawl, Lan Su Chinese Garden or The Cart Blocks food carts.
- Time needed
- One to three hours.
Good questions
Is Powell's City of Books really the largest bookstore in the world?+
It is widely described as the largest independent new-and-used bookstore in the world, occupying a full city block with more than 3,500 sections across nine color-coded rooms.
What are the store hours?+
The store is open daily from morning to evening, with the Rare Book Room keeping shorter daytime hours. Check the official location page for current times.
Can I sell books to Powell's?+
Yes, but the used-book buying counter keeps limited weekend hours and the buying program has changed, so read the store's current guidance before bringing books.
Where should I park?+
Metered street parking surrounds the store, and the Brewery Blocks and SmartPark garages are nearby. The Portland Streetcar and MAX make driving unnecessary for most visitors.
Does Powell's host author events?+
Yes. Dozens of writers, artists and thinkers read each month in the Basil Hallward Gallery in the Pearl Room. Check the online calendar before your trip.
