The Isles of Shoals are the great day trip from Portsmouth and the single best use of a clear summer afternoon. Nine small, wind-scoured islands sit well out in the Gulf of Maine, close enough to see from the coast on a bright day and far enough to feel like another country once you are aboard. The state line runs between them, so some belong to New Hampshire and others to Maine, and their human history is out of proportion to their size: Gilded Age resort hotels, a fishing station that predates most New England towns, a celebrated nineteenth-century poet and garden-maker named Celia Thaxter, and a tangle of pirate and shipwreck legends. Isles of Shoals Steamship Company runs the cruises from its dock on the Portsmouth waterfront, and the boats make a loop through Portsmouth Harbor first, past the old forts and lighthouse at the harbor mouth, before heading out to sea. Depending on the sailing you choose, you either circle the islands with narration or go ashore on Star Island, where a historic conference center and a walking path across the granite give you time on land. Expect sea air, a drop in temperature once you clear the harbor, and sightings of seals, seabirds and the white tower of the island lighthouse.
Know the cast of islands before you sail. Star Island, on the New Hampshire side, holds the large white hotel building that has operated as a conference and retreat center for well over a century, along with a stone chapel and trails across open granite. Appledore, the largest island, lies on the Maine side and is the home of a university marine laboratory and the recreated garden where Celia Thaxter once grew the flowers painted by Childe Hassam.
Smuttynose carries a darker story, the 1873 murders, along with its older fishing and smuggling reputation, and White Island is topped by the lighthouse that guides vessels in. The narration on the cruises stitches these threads together, and the best of it connects the islands to the working harbor you just left.
Choosing a sailing
Some trips are straight sightseeing loops that stay aboard, while others include an island landing with a fixed amount of time ashore before the boat returns. If you want to walk, picnic and see the buildings, choose a landing trip and plan for the island's limited facilities. If you only want views of the lighthouse, the seals and the cliffs, a loop is enough, and the harbor portion alone is a pleasant introduction to the river mouth.
Whichever you pick, sailings run seasonally, roughly from late spring into the fall, and weather decides whether the boat goes, so check the current schedule and conditions when you book.
Dress for the water, not the town. It is routinely ten degrees cooler and much windier out at the Shoals, so bring a windproof layer, a hat, and shoes that grip granite, and bring a camera with a long enough lens for seabirds. Seasickness is uncommon on calm days but possible on rougher ones, so anyone prone to it should sit near the stern and eat lightly.
Pair the cruise with a seafood lunch on the waterfront afterward, and if you want a second way to see the coastline, add a lighthouse or harbor cruise on another day. For many visitors this is the experience they mention first when they get home.
What to expect
The experience
A narrated boat trip from the Portsmouth waterfront through the harbor and out to the Isles of Shoals, with some sailings stopping for time ashore on Star Island.
Best time
Summer and early fall on a clear day; seasonal sailings run roughly late spring into autumn. Mornings are usually calmest.
How long
Two to four hours depending on the sailing chosen.
Tips
Bring a windproof layer even in July. Choose a landing trip if you want to walk the island, and check weather and the current schedule when you book.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone with a free afternoon and a love of the sea; the signature Portsmouth day trip.
- Families
- Good for school-age kids who like boats and seals; short on island facilities, so pack snacks.
- Couples
- A sunset-leaning or late-day sailing with a drink aboard is a romantic highlight.
- Pair with
- Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse, the harbor cruises and a waterfront seafood lunch.
- Time needed
- A half day including boarding time.
Good questions
Can I go ashore on the islands?+
Some sailings include a landing on Star Island with set time ashore, while others circle the islands without landing. Choose the trip type that matches what you want.
When do the cruises run?+
The boats operate seasonally, roughly late spring through fall, and are subject to weather. Check the current schedule before you plan.
What should I wear?+
Layers and a windproof jacket. It is cooler and windier at sea than in town, and landing trips involve walking on rock.
Are the islands in New Hampshire or Maine?+
Both. The state line passes through the group, so the islands are split between the two states.
Is it suitable for children?+
Yes for most ages, with narration, seals and seabirds to keep them engaged. Landing trips have limited facilities, so bring water and snacks.
