Plaza Munoz Gamero

Plaza Munoz Gamero is the living room of Punta Arenas, a broad, tree-filled square one block back from the waterfront where locals sit on benches, children chase pigeons and visitors pause to take in the architecture of a city that once grew rich on wool and the ships that rounded the Horn. The plaza is named for a Chilean governor of the territory, and it is dominated by a monument to Ferdinand Magellan, the Portuguese navigator who sailed through the strait in 1520. At its base, a bronze figure of an indigenous man gazes out, and tradition says that anyone who rubs his toe will return to Patagonia, which explains why the metal there shines. Around the square stand the cathedral, the former mansion of Sara Braun, now partly a hotel, and elegant buildings from the golden age of the wool boom, with ornate facades, carved stone and wrought-iron balconies. The park itself is planted with tall cypresses, pines and exotic trees, and a bandstand hosts occasional events. It is free to visit, open at all hours and perfect for a coffee break or a slow orientation walk.

The architecture repays a slow look. Many of the mansions were built by wool barons and shipping magnates who imported materials from Europe, including marble, tiles and furniture, which they shipped around the Horn. The result is a streetscape that feels more like a provincial European capital than a frontier town.

Look up at the cornices and wrought-iron details, and notice the contrast between the grand stone frontages and the colourful corrugated-metal houses that cover the surrounding hills.Use the plaza as a base. Cafes and restaurants line the surrounding streets, serving strong coffee, cakes, empanadas and the regional specialty of king crab.

Tourist information and tour agencies cluster nearby, so it is easy to arrange excursions, and many guided city tours begin here. In the evening the plaza is calm, lit by street lamps and framed by the glow of shop windows, and in winter a dusting of snow adds to the atmosphere. Wind can be strong, so keep a jacket handy even on sunny days.

The plaza also anchors a short self-guided walk. From here, you can stroll to the waterfront, climb the steps to the Cerro de la Cruz viewpoint, walk to the Regional Museum in the Braun-Menendez mansion, or head to the cemetery a few blocks north.

Combine these stops into a half-day of easy sightseeing, and add a lunch of fresh seafood to complete the picture. If you are on a tight schedule, an hour here gives a surprisingly good sense of the city. If you have more time, return at different hours to see how the square changes from busy morning to quiet evening.A few small details add to the visit. Look for the old street lamps, the carefully tended flower beds that bloom briefly in the short summer, and the carved stone doorways of the mansions.

In the colder months, locals stroll in heavy coats and the plaza takes on a snug, wintry feel. Street performers and craft stalls sometimes appear at weekends, and on warm evenings it is a favourite gathering place. Whatever the season, it repays a return visit at a different hour, and it is the easiest place in the city to feel the character of Punta Arenas without spending anything.