Confeitaria Colombo is the most famous cafe in Rio and one of the most beautiful anywhere in South America. It opened in 1894 on Rua Goncalves Dias, a narrow pedestrian street in the commercial centre, and became the meeting place of the city's elite during the decades when Rio was the capital of Brazil. Writers, politicians, musicians and intellectuals gathered at its marble tables; Riotur names the poet Olavo Bilac, the statesman Rui Barbosa, the composer Heitor Villa-Lobos and the pioneering composer Chiquinha Gonzaga among its regulars, and the city has recognised it as part of the cultural and artistic heritage of Rio. What draws visitors today is the room itself. The main salon is a fantasy of the early twentieth century, with wide art-nouveau spaces, carved wooden cabinets and counters, huge crystal mirrors brought from Antwerp that multiply the room endlessly, and a French stained-glass skylight over the upper gallery, where a balcony looks down on the bustle below. Glass cases are filled with cakes, sweets and savoury snacks, and Riotur counts more than sixty kinds of confection on the menu. You can come for breakfast, served until late morning, for lunch, or for afternoon tea, when the tiered stands of sweets and savouries come out; or you can simply stand at the counter with a coffee and a pastry, Brazilian style, and soak up the atmosphere for a fraction of the cost of a sit-down meal. Classic Brazilian and Portuguese treats are the safest choice: pasteis de nata, coxinhas, empadas and the many small sweets based on eggs, coconut and condensed milk. Service can be slow at busy times and prices are higher than an ordinary cafe, as you are paying for the setting, but very few visitors regret it. The Colombo brand has other branches, including one at the Galeao airport, but only the original has the historic room.
Practical details: Riotur lists the address as Rua Goncalves Dias 32 in the Centro district, and opening hours as Monday to Saturday, 10am to 7pm, so it is closed on Sundays. Queues form at lunchtime and mid-afternoon, especially in high season; arriving at opening time or late in the afternoon helps. A sit-down meal is moderately priced for Rio, while a coffee and pastry at the counter is cheap.
How to visit: if you only have time for a quick stop, order a coffee and a pastel de nata at the counter and walk around the ground floor; if you can spare an hour, climb to the upper gallery for tea and the best view of the mirrors and skylight. Combine it with the Theatro Municipal, the Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura and the colonial churches of the centre, all within a short walk, and with the Saara street market for a taste of everyday Rio. The centre is busy on weekdays and very quiet on Sundays.
Who it suits: anyone who loves historic cafes, architecture or cake; couples looking for an elegant break; and families with children, who generally love the cake counters. It is the perfect rest stop on a walking day in the historic centre.
What to expect
The experience
A historic tea room and patisserie of 1894, with mirrored art-nouveau salons, a stained-glass skylight and a long counter of cakes and snacks. Sit down for a meal or tea, or stand at the counter for a coffee.
Best time
At opening time or late afternoon on a weekday. Closed on Sundays.
How long
Thirty minutes at the counter, up to an hour and a half for tea.
Tips
For a quick, cheap visit, have a coffee and pastel de nata at the counter. For tea, head to the upper gallery for the best view of the room.
Quick picks
- Best for
- The most beautiful coffee break in Rio.
- Families
- Children love the cake cases; the counter option keeps it quick and affordable.
- Couples
- Afternoon tea in the upper gallery after the Theatro Municipal tour.
- Pair with
- The Theatro Municipal, the Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura and the Metropolitan Cathedral.
- Time needed
- An hour.
Good questions
When was Confeitaria Colombo founded?+
In 1894, on Rua Goncalves Dias in the centre of Rio, where the original salon still operates.
Is Confeitaria Colombo open on Sundays?+
No. Riotur lists it as open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7pm.
Do I need a reservation?+
Generally not, but queues form at lunchtime and in mid-afternoon. Arrive early or late, or have a coffee standing at the counter.
What should I order?+
Classic Brazilian and Portuguese treats are the best bet: pastel de nata, coxinhas, empadas and small sweets, or the afternoon tea if you want the full experience.
Is it expensive?+
A sit-down meal or tea costs more than an ordinary cafe because of the setting, but a coffee and pastry at the counter is cheap and lets you enjoy the room.
