Ipanema Hippie Fair

Every Sunday, Praca General Osorio, the leafy square a block back from the eastern end of Ipanema beach, fills with stalls for the Feira Hippie, the best-known street market in Rio. Officially called the Feirarte de Ipanema, it began in the late 1960s, when, according to Riotur, a group of artists started selling their work in the square to pay off their debts at the neighbourhood bars. Ipanema was then the centre of Rio's counterculture, the neighbourhood of bossa nova, poets and free spirits, and the fair grew with it. More than half a century later it is much bigger and more commercial, with more than six hundred exhibitors, but it still has a creative, relaxed peace-and-love feel. What you will find: paintings of Rio scenes, from naive favela landscapes to beach scenes and portraits, which are among the most popular souvenirs; leather sandals, bags and belts; jewellery made with Brazilian stones and seeds; hammocks, ceramics, wood carvings and toys; T-shirts, beachwear and the colourful cotton dresses of Brazilian designers; and a great many classic souvenirs, from Havaianas and football shirts to Christ the Redeemer figures. Quality varies widely, from genuine artists and makers to mass-produced pieces, so take your time and look for stallholders who make what they sell. Food is part of the experience, with stalls selling snacks and sweets, including Bahian specialities, and the cafes and juice bars of Ipanema are all around the square. The General Osorio metro station opens directly onto the square, which makes the fair easy to reach from Copacabana or the centre, and the beach is a two-minute walk away, so the classic Ipanema Sunday is the fair in the morning and the sand in the afternoon. Riotur lists opening hours of 9am to 6pm on Sundays.

How to shop: walk the whole fair once before buying, as the same items reappear at different prices. Bargaining is gentle rather than aggressive; it is reasonable to ask for a small discount, especially when buying several pieces. Many stalls accept cards and Pix, but carry some small notes. Paintings can be rolled for travel, and leather goods and jewellery are the best quality buys. If you are looking for something genuinely made in Brazil rather than imported, ask the stallholder where and how the piece was made; the makers are usually proud to explain, and the conversation is part of the pleasure. Larger paintings and hammocks are bulky, so think about your luggage before you fall in love with one, or buy towards the end of your stay.

Safety and timing: the fair is crowded at midday, and pickpockets work crowds everywhere in Rio, so keep your phone in a front pocket and your bag closed. Mid-morning is the most pleasant time, before the heat and the biggest crowds. Combine the fair with the beach at Posto 9 or Arpoador, a lunch in Ipanema and, if you have energy, the sunset from the Arpoador rock.

Who it suits: souvenir hunters, families and couples on a relaxed Sunday, and anyone who enjoys a market atmosphere. It is easy, free and in the middle of the best beach neighbourhood in the city.