Pedra da Gavea Guided Hike

Pedra da Gavea is the massive block of granite that rises straight out of the sea at the western edge of the South Zone, between Sao Conrado and Barra da Tijuca. At 842 metres it is one of the highest coastal monoliths in the world, and its summit, a flat-topped dome covered in forest, is one of the most spectacular viewpoints in a city full of them. Seen from below, weathering has carved what looks like a giant face on its side, which has fed legends about ancient inscriptions and lost civilisations for centuries. The climb is the most demanding of the classic Rio hikes and should be taken seriously. The trail starts at the end of Estrada Sorima in Barra, inside the Tijuca National Park, and climbs steeply through Atlantic rainforest for most of the way, with roots, rocks and a few exposed sections along cliff edges. Near the top comes the Carrasqueira, a near-vertical rock face of about fifteen metres that must be climbed to reach the summit plateau; guides set up a rope and harness for it, and it is the part that turns many people back. Above it, the walk across the summit leads to the famous viewpoints: straight down the cliffs to the beach of Sao Conrado and the hang-gliders landing on it, east along the coast to Ipanema, Copacabana and Sugarloaf, west across Barra da Tijuca, and inland to the Tijuca forest and Christ the Redeemer. The ascent takes around two and a half hours for fit hikers, and the full outing, with transfers from the South Zone, takes about seven hours. Going with a guide, as on the tour linked here, is strongly recommended: the trail forks, the rock section requires equipment and experience, and guides know when weather makes the climb unsafe. The tour includes hotel pickup and drop-off from Sao Conrado, Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana, a live guide and safety equipment, in groups of up to twenty.

Alternatives for those who want the view without the climb: Pedra Bonita, the neighbouring peak used as the hang-gliding launch, has an easy trail of about half an hour from the road to its summit, with a superb view of Pedra da Gavea, Sao Conrado and the coast. Tandem hang-gliding and paragliding flights from Pedra Bonita down to the beach at Sao Conrado are one of the great adventures in Rio, sold by licensed instructors at the ramp and through tour companies. Morro Dois Irmaos, from Vidigal, is a moderate climb with a very different character and an iconic view over Ipanema and Leblon.

How to do it well: start early, both to avoid the midday heat and because afternoon clouds can roll over the summit and hide the view. Carry at least two litres of water per person, snacks, sunscreen and a light layer, and wear trail shoes with good grip; the rock becomes dangerously slippery after rain, and guides cancel when conditions are poor. You need a good level of fitness and a head for heights for the Carrasqueira and the cliff-edge sections. Do not attempt the hike alone or late in the day, and keep valuables to a minimum.

Who it suits: fit, adventurous travellers who want the toughest and most rewarding hike in the city. It is not suitable for young children, people with vertigo or anyone with limited fitness; for them, Pedra Bonita or Dois Irmaos offer big views with much less effort.