Riisitunturi Snow Monsters Hike

Riisitunturi National Park lies in the municipality of Posio, a long drive south-east of Rovaniemi, and in deep winter it becomes one of the strangest landscapes in Finland. Spruces on the exposed fell collect layer after layer of frozen mist and snow until each tree is wrapped in a thick white shell. Finns call these shapes tykky, and visitors call them snow monsters, because on a still grey afternoon the slopes look like a crowd of hooded figures. The hill itself is modest in height, but it is high enough, and open enough, to catch the cold moist air that builds the effect, which is why the park is known for this scenery above all. A guided day trip from Rovaniemi removes the logistics: transport on winter roads, a guide who knows the trails and the weather, and a stop for food in the forest. The walk is not technical, but it is a proper day outdoors, with snowshoes or boots depending on conditions, and it rewards anyone who wants a quieter, wilder side of Lapland than the village and the safari trails.

Plan for a full day. The drive from Rovaniemi to the park takes well over an hour each way, so most departures are in the morning and return in the late afternoon. Guides usually collect guests from central hotels, brief the group on the route and the weather, and stop for a lunch cooked outdoors, often sausages or a soup warmed over a fire.

On the trail you walk a gentle route up through the forest to viewpoints over the frozen lakes and the white treeline. How far you go depends on the snow, the wind and the fitness of the group, and a good guide adjusts the plan rather than pushing on.

The snow monsters are at their best in the heart of winter, typically from about January to March, when frost has had time to build up. In early winter the trees are only lightly coated, so ask whether the trip you choose is suited to the date you are travelling. Daylight is short in December and the walk may finish near dusk, which is lovely for photographs but means a headtorch is useful.

Temperatures on an exposed fell can be several degrees colder than in town, and the wind makes it feel harsher, so wear a full set of layers, insulated boots, a balaclava or neck warmer and mittens with liners. Most operators lend snowshoes and sometimes overalls, so check what is included when you book.

This is a good choice for active travellers, photographers and couples, and for families with older children who enjoy walking. It is less suited to very small children, since the day is long and the drive is part of it. Pair it with an evening Northern Lights hunt on another night, and keep a warm, early dinner in mind for the evening you return, because a day on a frozen fell makes most people hungry and sleepy.

A few practical points make the day smoother. Eat a proper breakfast, because the walk burns more energy than it feels like in the cold, and carry a thermos or water bottle that will not freeze solid by keeping it inside your jacket. Phone and camera batteries drain fast on a fell, so keep spares warm against your body.

If you are travelling in December, ask how many hours of daylight the trip will use, and in the colder weeks of January and February confirm that the operator is comfortable running the walk, since a guide will change the plan if the wind or the temperature becomes unsafe.