Skiing the Cottonwood Canyons

Skiing is the reason many people visit Salt Lake City in winter, and the Cottonwood Canyons are the reason it works. Four resorts, Alta and Snowbird in Little Cottonwood Canyon and Brighton and Solitude in Big Cottonwood Canyon, lie within 30 to 45 minutes of the airport, which means you can fly in, pick up your skis and be on the lift before lunch. The snow is famously light and dry, the product of storms crossing the Great Salt Lake and dumping on the Wasatch, and annual snowfall at the resorts is commonly more than 500 inches. Utah's slogan, the Greatest Snow on Earth, is a registered trademark and also fairly accurate. The skiing is for every level. Alta is a skier-only mountain with a classic, unfussy feel and some of the best steeps and tree skiing in the country; Snowbird is bigger and bolder, with a tram to the summit and a long season; Brighton is friendly and great for families and night skiing; Solitude is quiet, with open bowls and a village atmosphere. Renting a package from a partner in town is a straightforward way to sort out gear before heading up.

The geography is the secret. The Wasatch Range rises abruptly from the valley floor to more than 11,000 feet, and the canyons funnel storms from the lake directly into the high basins. Lake-effect snow adds to the effect, so a storm that drops a few inches in the valley can leave a foot or more on the mountain.

The same compactness that makes the snow great also makes the logistics easy: the resorts are close, the ski areas share the same range, and a visitor can sample more than one in a trip. Several areas are linked by backcountry routes, but those are for experts with avalanche training and proper equipment.

Getting there is straightforward but weather-dependent. The canyon roads are subject to avalanche control and traction laws, which require snow tires or chains in winter, and closures can occur during heavy storms, often for just a few hours. Public ski buses run from the valley and are an excellent, low-stress alternative to driving; many hotels also arrange shuttles. Arrive early on powder days, because parking fills quickly and the lifts can have lines. Resorts sell lift tickets online and often cheaper in advance, and on-mountain amenities range from basic lodges to luxury spas at Snowbird.

The season runs roughly from late November to April, and sometimes beyond at Snowbird, so check the resorts for opening dates and conditions before you plan. Beginners should consider a half-day lesson and a smaller resort for the first outing, intermediates can sample two resorts across a long weekend, and everyone should budget for sun protection and goggles, because the light at altitude is bright even on cloudy days.