Salt Lake City has a better food scene than most visitors expect, and a few quirks that are worth understanding before you sit down. The city's dining reflects its pioneer roots, its immigrant communities and a vibrant young chef culture, and eating here is a fine way to learn about the place.
Local specialties
Start with fry sauce, a mix of ketchup and mayonnaise served with fries and burgers across the state, and the informal condiment of Utah. Pastrami burgers, a local invention from mid-century diners, pile pastrami on a cheeseburger and are a rite of passage. Funeral potatoes, a cheesy potato casserole, appear at church potlucks and in some restaurants. Utah scones, deep-fried dough served with honey butter or powdered sugar, are not like English scones, and they are delicious. Jell-O has a loyal following in the state, and soda shops serve creative mixed drinks without alcohol, a local specialty.
Mexican and Latin food
The city's Mexican restaurants are some of the best in the Mountain West, with a long tradition of moles and regional dishes. Many are family-run and have been serving the community for decades. Order a mole or a regional specialty rather than the safest taco, and ask the staff for recommendations. Latin American bakeries and markets are another delight.
Pacific Islander and Asian food
Utah has one of the largest Polynesian populations in the continental United States, and Tongan, Samoan and other Pacific Islander dishes can be found at restaurants and food trucks in the valley. Vietnamese and other Southeast Asian restaurants, as well as Japanese, Korean and Chinese options, add variety. Several neighborhoods south of downtown are known for concentrations of excellent places.
Farm-to-table and modern American
A new generation of chefs is using regional ingredients: Utah-raised beef and lamb, Idaho trout, valley produce, local honey and cheese. Downtown and the neighborhoods of Sugar House, 9th and 9th, and the Avenues have creative restaurants, cafes and bakeries. Reservations are advisable on weekends. Coffee culture is strong, since many residents do not drink alcohol, and local roasters and cafes are plentiful.
Understanding Utah's alcohol rules
Utah's liquor laws are different from most states, though they have loosened over the years. Beer, wine and spirits are available at restaurants, bars and state-run stores, and the rules about ordering, licensing and service can vary by venue. In some places you may be asked to order food with drinks, or to buy a drink at the bar rather than at a table. Strength limits on some products apply. Staff are used to explaining the rules to visitors, so simply ask. Craft breweries and distilleries are growing in number, and many have tasting rooms, so there is plenty to enjoy.
Markets and food events
From summer through fall, the Saturday farmers' market at Pioneer Park brings together growers, bakers and food stalls, and is a pleasant place to spend a morning. Food trucks gather at various spots around the city. A guided food and drink walking tour is a good way to sample many places in a few hours, and it gives you a shortlist of restaurants to return to.
Practical advice
Many restaurants close early on Sundays or are closed entirely, so check hours if you are planning a Sunday dinner. Popular spots can have waits at peak hours, so go early or make reservations. At altitude, alcohol hits harder, so drink water and pace yourself. If you are skiing, many resort lodges have good food, and Snowbird's village restaurants are a convenient choice after a day on the mountain.
A sample day
Breakfast at a local cafe with a scone, a morning at Temple Square, a pastrami burger or a mole at lunch, an afternoon coffee on the way to the Capitol, and dinner at a modern American restaurant downtown. End with a drink at a craft brewery or a historic bar. If you stay at a downtown hotel such as the Kimpton Hotel Monaco or the Peery Hotel, you can walk to most of the options. Travelers who prefer to cook can pick up local produce, cheese and honey at the Saturday market or a nearby grocery, which pairs well with a hotel suite that has a kitchen. And if you have dietary restrictions, you will find that vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options are widely offered, with many restaurants happy to adapt dishes when asked politely.