San Antonio de los Cobres

San Antonio de los Cobres is a small mining and railway town at about 3,700 metres above sea level on the Puna plateau, the high, dry tableland that stretches across the north of Argentina into Chile and Bolivia. It is the main base for visits to the Puna from Salta, and the road to reach it is a highlight in its own right. National Route 51 climbs the Quebrada del Toro, passing red rock walls and cardon cacti before breaking onto the plateau via a series of switchbacks and the high pass of Abra Blanca. Beyond the town, the landscape opens into a wide bowl of brown hills, salt flats and snowy peaks, with vicunas and llamas roaming the grasslands. The town itself is plain, with a small church, a handicraft market and simple restaurants, but the experience is about altitude, space and light. Many excursions continue to La Polvorilla Viaduct or onward to the Salinas Grandes.

The Puna feels like a different planet from the green valleys of Salta. The air is thin, the sky is deep blue, the sun is intense and the wind is cold. Vegetation is sparse, and the communities that live here, many of them Kolla people, have adapted through llama herding, small-scale agriculture, mining and weaving.

A stop at the handicraft market lets you buy hand-knitted woollens and llama wool goods directly from artisans. Some tours include a visit to a village school or a roadside shrine, and others finish with a short ride on the train or a walk near the viaduct.

Planning matters at this altitude. Spend a night or two in Salta first to acclimatise, drink water, eat lightly and avoid alcohol the day before the excursion. Wear warm layers, a windproof jacket, hat and gloves even if the day starts warm in the valley, and carry sun cream and sunglasses. Bring cash because services are limited. Anyone with heart or lung conditions should consult a doctor beforehand.

The road is mostly paved, but weather can change quickly, so ask about conditions and schedule flexibility. Because the journey is long, a guided tour with a driver is the easiest way to enjoy the scenery safely. Visitors who want a slower pace can combine the town with the Train to the Clouds or a cycling day in the Quebrada del Toro, building a three-part picture of the high northwest.

It is also worth knowing the cultural context. The region has long been part of trade routes linking the Andes with the lowlands, and the mining of copper, from which the town takes its name, and later of other minerals shaped its economy. Today llama herding, weaving and tourism support many families. If you stay for lunch, try a dish such as llama stew, locro or a simple empanada, and if the weather is clear, take a moment to watch the light on the plateau.

Photographers should note that the sky is darker and stars more brilliant here than almost anywhere in the country, which makes any overnight stay in the Puna a rare chance for night photography. Just remember that nights are bitterly cold.

Because the town sits so high, a gentle approach is wise: take the road slowly, stop for photographs at the passes instead of rushing, and listen to your body. Many visitors find that a short rest and a hot drink at the town's cafes helps them adjust before the next stage of the day.