Train to the Clouds

The Tren a las Nubes is the most famous railway journey in Argentina and one of the highest in the world. The line, built in the first half of the twentieth century to link the Salta region with the Chilean border and the mining districts, climbs from the valley of Quebrada del Toro into the Puna plateau through a staggering run of engineering: dozens of bridges, many tunnels, viaducts, two zigzags and two spirals that allow the track to gain height on steep mountainsides. The highlight is the La Polvorilla Viaduct, a long steel structure about sixty metres above a canyon at roughly 4,200 metres above sea level. The modern tourist service is organised as an excursion that blends road and rail. A typical format is bus, train, bus: you travel by road from Salta up the Quebrada del Toro to San Antonio de los Cobres or the nearby station, board the train for the scenic section up to the viaduct and back, and return by road. Services may vary by season and by year, so check the current operating pattern when you book.

The scenery is part of the appeal. The route passes through a canyon of striped red rock, past tiny villages, across stony plains with grazing llamas and vicunas and under tall cardon cacti on the lower slopes. As the train climbs, the landscape turns into a high desert plateau with vast skies, snowcapped peaks in the distance and a cold, thin atmosphere.

Onboard staff provide commentary in Spanish and often English, and the train includes a small buffet, folk music and local snacks. On arrival at the viaduct, passengers can usually step out for photos before the return, with a ceremonial stop and a chance to buy handicrafts from local vendors. The effect is both engineering marvel and travel adventure.

Altitude is the main practical concern. The train carries oxygen and trained medical staff, but travellers should still prepare by acclimatising in Salta, drinking water, eating lightly and avoiding alcohol the night before. Anyone with heart or lung conditions, pregnancy or other health concerns should consult a doctor. Dress in warm layers, because temperatures at the top can be cold and windy even on sunny days, and bring sunscreen and sunglasses.

The day is long, so plan on a very early start and a late return. For those who prefer to explore the same landscape by road, the Quebrada del Toro is also a rewarding drive, and cycling and trekking options exist along parts of the route. However you approach it, the Train to the Clouds remains the signature journey of the northwest, linking the green Lerma Valley to the stark, beautiful Puna in one unforgettable day.

The railway also has a human story. Construction began in the 1920s and took decades, relying on the labour of thousands of workers who cut tunnels by hand, laid track on narrow ledges and endured cold and altitude. The engineering feats required, including the zigzags and spirals that let the train climb steep slopes, were designed by a team led by the American engineer Richard Maury, after whom a station on the line is named.

The railway was meant to carry minerals and trade between Argentina and Chile, and later became a tourist attraction that has been admired around the world. Riding it today connects you with that history, and the small museums and stations along the way keep the memory alive.