Salzburg works in every season, but each one gives you a different city. The old town is compact and the sights are mostly indoors, so the question is less whether you can visit than what kind of atmosphere you want. Here is how the year breaks down.
Spring, from March to May: mild, fresh and uncrowded
Spring is one of the best times to visit, with the gardens coming to life, the mountains still snow-capped and the crowds much thinner than in summer. The Mirabell Gardens fill with tulips and other spring flowers, the cafes put out their terraces, and Easter brings markets and concerts. The Hellbrunn trick fountains and the Salzach river cruises usually restart in spring, and the weather is often changeable, so pack layers and a light rain jacket. Late spring is a good time for the Untersberg cable car and for the ice caves at Werfen, which open for the season.
Summer, from June to August: festival season
Summer brings long evenings, outdoor dining and the Salzburg Festival, which fills the city with opera, theatre and concerts from July to late August. It is the most atmospheric time to visit if you love music, but it is also the busiest and most expensive, with hotels booking out months ahead and rates at their highest. Expect warm days, often in the mid-twenties Celsius, and the occasional thunderstorm in the afternoon. Hallstatt, Königssee and the lakes are at their most crowded, so go early, and the fortress and museums are busiest in the middle of the day. Everything is open, including the fountains, the cruises and the mountain lifts.
Autumn, from September to November: golden light and quieter streets. Early autumn is the sweet spot for many travellers, with warm days, clear skies, cooler nights and the larch and beech forests turning gold in the hills. The crowds ease once the Festival ends, prices drop and the lakes become calmer. Late September brings the Rupertikirtag, a traditional fair on the cathedral square. By November the weather turns cooler and wetter, Hellbrunn’s palace and fountains close for the winter, and many outdoor attractions run shorter hours. It is a good time for the Hallein salt mine, the Stiegl-Brauwelt and the museums.
Winter, from December to February: Advent magic
From late November to Christmas, the Christkindlmarkt fills the cathedral square and the Residenzplatz, the fortress and Hellbrunn hold their own markets, and the city smells of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine. Candlelit concerts, choirs and brass bands make Advent one of the most atmospheric times to be here, and early December brings the Krampus processions, in which costumed figures run through the streets. It is also the busiest winter period, so book early. January and February are quiet, cold and often snowy, with the fortress and the old town under snow, low hotel prices and the Mozart Week festival around the composer’s birthday in late January. Some attractions, such as the ice caves and the river cruises, are closed, and the fortress funicular has short maintenance closures, so check before you go.
Weather in general
Salzburg is one of the rainier cities in Austria, because the Alps push moisture up against the mountains, and it can rain at any time of year. The locals have a word for the fine, persistent drizzle, and the best response is to have a wet-weather plan. Museums, concerts and the salt mine all work in the rain, and the weather often clears in the afternoon. Temperatures in winter commonly sit around freezing or below, and in summer the evenings can be cool.
If you hate crowds
Visit between late April and mid-June or from mid-September to mid-October, avoid weekends where you can, and start early. The old town empties out by seven in the evening, once the day-trippers leave, which is the best time for a quiet stroll and dinner. Midweek visits are calmer than weekends at most sights.
If you love music
Come in late July and August for the Festival, in January for the Mozart Week, or in Advent for choirs and carol concerts. Mirabell Palace and the fortress hold concerts almost every evening of the year, so there is always something to hear.
Where to stay
Book early for the Festival and Advent. Hotel Elefant and Hotel Goldgasse keep you in the heart of the old town, while Hotel Sacher is the grand choice for a special trip. Motel One Salzburg-Mirabell is the budget pick if you plan to spend your days out.
