Eating in San Pedro de Atacama is part of the experience, and the village punches above its weight for a place in the middle of a desert. Restaurants range from simple cafes serving set lunches to candlelit courtyards with creative menus, and many draw on Andean ingredients such as quinoa, llama, corn and local herbs. Because supplies must be brought in over long distances, prices are higher than in much of Chile, and menus can change with deliveries, but the standard is generally good. Here is how to eat well.
Andean ingredients
Look for quinoa in salads, soups and side dishes, and for llama meat, which is lean and mild and often served as a steak, a stew or in empanadas. Corn appears in many forms, including humitas, a steamed, tamale-like parcel of fresh corn, and pastel de choclo, a baked corn and meat dish. Potatoes in many colours, goat cheese, and desert herbs such as rica rica, which is also used in a local infusion and in cocktails, add depth. Ask what is local when you order.
Chilean classics
You will also find the national favourites. Empanadas de pino, filled with beef, onion, egg and olive, make a good snack, and cheese empanadas are everywhere. Cazuela, a hearty soup with meat, potato and corn, is welcome on cold nights. Ceviche and fresh fish are available, though the sea is far away, so ask how fresh they are. Sandwiches such as the completo, a hot dog with avocado and tomato, are a cheap, quick meal. Vegetarians can find salads, vegetable stews, quinoa dishes and empanadas, and the village has a number of vegetarian and vegan options.
Set lunches and menus
The best value is often the menu del dia, a set lunch of a starter, main and drink, offered by many restaurants on weekdays and weekends. Evening menus are more expensive, and the village's best restaurants fill early, so book a table if you have a particular place in mind, especially in high season. Kitchens often close between lunch and dinner, so plan ahead if you eat at off-peak hours. Dinner is relatively early for Chile, since most visitors rise early for excursions.
Eating on tours
Many tours include a snack or breakfast, such as the simple breakfast served at El Tatio, and some full-day tours include a picnic or lunch. Check before you book, and carry your own snacks, such as nuts, fruit and bars, plus water. Before a dawn tour, eat lightly. At high altitude, heavy, greasy meals can make you feel worse, so choose simple foods and keep hydrated.
Drinks
Chile's signature drink is the pisco sour, a cocktail of pisco, lime juice, sugar and ice, and you will find many variations. Chilean wine is excellent, particularly Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon, though prices in the desert are higher than in Santiago. Craft beer is widely available, and many restaurants offer drinks based on desert plants. Mote con huesillo, a sweet peach and wheat drink, is popular as a cold refresher. Remember that alcohol has stronger effects at altitude and can worsen dehydration, so go easy, especially before high-altitude excursions.
Coffee and cafes
The village has a good number of cafes serving coffee, juices, sandwiches and cakes, and they make a pleasant place to rest during the heat of the day. Many are on or near Calle Caracoles and around the plaza. Some bakeries sell fresh bread and pastries from early morning, which is handy before early tours.
Practical tips
Cards are widely accepted, but carry some pesos for small purchases, since machines can fail. A tip of around ten percent is customary in restaurants, and may be suggested on the bill. Ask your hotel whether the tap water is suitable for drinking, and if you are unsure, use bottled or filtered water and refill a reusable bottle where filtered water is provided. Opening hours can change with the season, and many places close one day a week. If you have a food allergy, learn the Spanish terms and tell staff clearly.
Self-catering
If your accommodation has a kitchen, you can buy basic supplies in the village's small supermarkets and stalls, though fresh produce is limited and pricey. A picnic of bread, cheese, avocados and fruit is perfect for a day out. If you are staying in an all-inclusive lodge, meals and drinks are part of the package, so check the terms and any restrictions, and tell the staff about dietary requirements in advance.
A food plan for three days
Start with a simple lunch of a set menu and an empanada on your arrival day. Try llama or quinoa at dinner on day two, with a pisco sour. On day three, eat a light breakfast before dawn tours, pack snacks for the road, and finish with a relaxed dinner of local dishes and a glass of Chilean wine, watching the stars if your restaurant has a terrace.