San Pedro de Atacama is a small adobe village at about 2,400 m above sea level, set in an oasis in the driest desert on Earth. Almost everything worth seeing lies outside the village, in a ring of salt flats, volcanoes, geysers, lagoons and canyons that can be reached on day trips, so the best first-time plan is built around a handful of well-chosen excursions rather than a long list of sights. Here is how to shape a first visit.
Getting there
Most visitors fly to Calama's El Loa airport, usually from Santiago, and then travel about 100 km by road to the village, a transfer of around an hour and a half. Shared shuttles, private transfers and hire cars are all options, and many hotels and lodges can arrange pickups. Build the transfer into your first and last days, and avoid scheduling a tight connection on the day you leave.
How many days
Three full days is the minimum to see the main highlights without rushing, and four or five days lets you add a high-altitude day, a quiet cultural day and an evening or two of stargazing. If you have only two days, choose the Valle de la Luna at sunset and either El Tatio at dawn or a lagoons day, and leave the rest for another trip. A week allows a slower pace and some of the less-visited excursions, such as the Ruta de los Salares or a volcano hike.
What to book ahead
Several things need advance planning, particularly in busy seasons. Sunset departures to the Valle de la Luna, the Baltinache Hidden Lagoons, the Puritama baths and the balloon flights are limited by access rules or capacity, so reserve these early. Stargazing tours run most nights but are better booked in advance, with the Moon phase in mind. Most other tours can be arranged a day or two ahead through your hotel or one of the many agencies on Calle Caracoles, but if you are travelling at a peak time, book the headline tours before you arrive.
Order your days around altitude
The village is at about 2,400 m, but El Tatio, the high lagoons and the volcano climbs reach 4,000 to 5,600 m. Plan lower-altitude outings first, such as the Valle de la Luna, the village, the Pukara de Quitor and the salt lagoons, and keep El Tatio, Piedras Rojas and any volcano for your second or third day. Drink water steadily, go easy on alcohol and heavy meals, and tell your guide if you feel unwell. There is more detail in our altitude guide.
Tours versus independent travel
Many of the best sights are far apart, on rough roads, and at high altitude, so guided tours are the simplest way to see them, and entrance tickets, permits and transport are usually included. You can hire a car or a bicycle for nearby sights such as the Pukara de Quitor, Tulor and the Valle de la Luna, but remember that distances are long, fuel is limited and mobile coverage is patchy beyond the village. Cycling is pleasant in the early morning and late afternoon, but the midday sun is fierce.
Getting around the village
San Pedro is compact and walkable, with unpaved lanes, a central plaza, a church and the main street, Calle Caracoles, which is lined with restaurants, cafes, shops and tour agencies. Most hotels are within ten minutes on foot of the plaza, though lodges are often a short drive away and provide transfers. At night the streets are poorly lit, so carry a small torch.
What to pack
The desert swings from hot days to freezing nights, so pack in layers: a warm jacket, hat and gloves for dawn and night, sun protection for the day, and sturdy shoes. Bring a reusable water bottle, sunscreen with a high factor, lip balm, sunglasses, a swimsuit and a small daypack. A headlamp or torch helps for stargazing and early starts, and a scarf or buff is useful on windy days and in the dunes.
Money and practicalities
Cards are widely accepted in the village, but carry some Chilean pesos for small purchases, tips and entry tickets at some sites, since cash machines can run out or be out of order. Tipping around ten percent in restaurants is customary. Water and electricity can occasionally be interrupted in remote places, and Wi-Fi is slower than in a city, so download maps and tickets before you go. Respect the local communities and the fragile environment: stay on marked paths, take your rubbish with you and do not remove stones or artefacts.
A sample first-timer plan
Day one: arrive, settle in and walk the village, with a visit to the church and the archaeological museum, and an easy dinner. Day two: a morning at the Pukara de Quitor and Tulor, then the Valle de la Luna at sunset. Day three: the high lagoons or the salt flats in the daytime and a stargazing tour at night. Day four: El Tatio at dawn, a soak at the Puritama baths and a slow afternoon. If you have more time, add the Rainbow Valley, a bike ride into the Devil's Throat canyon, or horseback riding through the oasis.