The High Road to Taos

The High Road to Taos is the scenic back route between Santa Fe and Taos, winding through the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains rather than following the Rio Grande. It links old Spanish colonial villages such as Chimayo, Cordova, Truchas, Las Trampas and Penasco, each with its own adobe church, weavers, woodcarvers and long memory. The road climbs through piñon and juniper country, opens onto wide views toward the Rio Grande valley and the Jemez Mountains, and in autumn runs through gold aspen and orchards heavy with apples. An audio-guided tour turns the drive into a narrated story. You play the guide on your phone as you travel, and it points out what you are seeing and tells the history: the Spanish land grants, the Penitente brotherhood, the artisans who preserve carving and weaving traditions, and the landscapes that attracted filmmakers and artists. Because it is self-guided, you set the pace and choose where to stop.

You will need a car and a phone with data or downloaded audio. The distance is modest, around ninety miles to Taos on the High Road, but roads are narrow and winding, so allow most of a day and avoid driving at night or in snow. Fill the tank in Santa Fe, carry water and snacks, and plan lunch in Chimayo or Penasco, where small restaurants serve New Mexican dishes. Cell coverage can be patchy, so download the audio ahead.

Key stops reward a few minutes each. The Santuario de Chimayo is the most famous, and Truchas has a street with sweeping views of the Truchas Peaks. The church at Las Trampas, dating from the eighteenth century, is regarded as one of the best-preserved Spanish colonial churches in the country, though it is open only at certain times, so check ahead. Studios and galleries in Cordova and Truchas sell carved santos, weaving and tinwork, many made by families who have practiced the craft for generations.

Autumn is the most beautiful season, with the aspens and harvest, but spring and early summer are also pleasant. Winter can close or complicate the higher stretches, so check conditions. Combine the High Road with a night in Taos, return via the Rio Grande Gorge, and you have a loop that shows both faces of northern New Mexico.

If you prefer a guide, a private day tour covers Chimayo and Taos Pueblo and takes the burden off the driver. The self-guided route is better for independent travelers, photographers and anyone who wants to stop wherever a view or a chapel catches the eye.

Think about direction and timing. Many travelers drive the High Road northbound in the morning and return on the faster Rio Grande road in the afternoon, which gives the best light on the villages and a quicker trip home. Be mindful that these are living communities: park considerately, ask before photographing people, and buy something from the artists you visit. If you love weaving, look for studios in Chimayo, and if you love carved wooden saints, ask in Cordova and Truchas.

Keep a small cooler for picnic foods and a basic first-aid kit, and use pullouts rather than stopping on the narrow road. Early starts give you light, space and a calmer drive, and leave time for a long lunch in a village.