Madrid and the Turquoise Trail

Madrid, pronounced MAD-rid, is the best known stop on the Turquoise Trail, the scenic byway between Santa Fe and Albuquerque. It began as a coal-mining town in the late nineteenth century, grew into a company town famous for its elaborate Christmas lights in the 1920s and 1930s, and nearly vanished when the mine closed in the 1950s. In the 1970s artists and craftspeople moved into the empty miners' cottages and turned the village into a quirky arts community, with galleries, glassblowers, jewelers and shops lining the main street. A self-guided audio tour brings the story back. You listen on your phone while walking the main street and the surrounding lanes, hearing about the mine, the families, the labor history and the revival, and seeing the old buildings that give the place its character. The tour is inexpensive, runs at your own pace and suits travelers who prefer to wander and stop wherever something catches their eye.

Madrid is about forty minutes from Santa Fe by car, along New Mexico Highway 14 through rolling juniper country, with views of the Ortiz and Sandia mountains. The village is small, and a visit takes one to two hours, longer if you stop for lunch. The Mine Shaft Tavern, with a famously long bar, is a landmark for a drink or a burger, and the village hosts live music on many weekends. Most shops open late morning and close in the late afternoon, and some close on weekdays, so a weekend visit is more reliable.

Make it a loop. Continue south to the Sandia Crest and Albuquerque, or do the route as a half-day drive that includes Cerrillos, a neighboring village with a dusty main street, old adobes and a turquoise mining history that gave the byway its name. Cerrillos and Madrid have both served as film locations, and fans of Westerns will recognize their streets. Albuquerque's own sights, including Old Town and the Sandia Peak Tramway, belong to a separate trip.

The audio tour needs a phone with a good signal or downloaded audio. Wear comfortable shoes for uneven ground and carry water. In winter, the village is quiet and some businesses reduce hours, while summer and autumn are livelier. Respect private property, because many of the buildings are homes and studios.

Madrid is not a major attraction, but it is a charming change of pace, and it pairs well with the High Road to Taos on a different day as a way to see the less-visited side of northern New Mexico. If you enjoy offbeat towns, galleries and local color, you will find that Madrid delivers far more character than its size suggests.

If you want to turn the outing into a full day, plan the drive in a loop: take the Turquoise Trail south, stop in Cerrillos and Madrid, visit a gallery or two, and return by another route. Packing a thermos and snacks is wise, since services are limited between villages. Spring wildflowers and autumn light make the landscape especially photogenic. If you are visiting on a weekday, call ahead to confirm that your favorite shops are open, and carry cash for small purchases.