Mercado de Abastos

The Mercado de Abastos is the pantry of Santiago de Compostela and one of the best-loved places in the city. Housed in a set of low, granite buildings arranged around stone courtyards near the Praza de Cervantes, it has served the old town for generations. The stalls sell the produce of the Galician countryside and coast: octopus, hake and shellfish from the rías, cheeses from the interior, fruit and vegetables, bread, cured meats and flowers. It is as much a place to watch daily life as to shop. The market is busiest in the morning, when farmers and fishmongers set out their goods and locals shop for the day. Some stalls offer food to take away or to eat on the spot, and nearby bars will often cook what you buy. It is a free visit, but allow time to wander slowly and talk to the traders, many of whom are proud of their produce and happy to explain it.

Start at the fish stalls, where the day's catch is laid out on ice: hake, sea bass, monkfish, clams, razor shells and the spiny barnacles known as percebes, a Galician delicacy gathered from wave-swept rocks. Octopus is sold fresh or cooked, and the sellers will explain how it is prepared. In the next courtyard are the cheese and meat stalls, where you can taste cheeses such as Tetilla, San Simón and Arzúa-Ulloa, all protected local types. Bakers sell loaves, empanadas and the almond tart, and vendors may offer small samples.

The flower stalls and market gardeners add colour. Many sellers come from the villages around Santiago, and their produce changes with the season: chestnuts in autumn, tomatoes and peppers in summer, greens and cabbages in winter. A visit outside the main tourist season shows the market at its most local. Photographing stalls is usually fine if you ask, and a purchase is a polite way to say thank you.

Timing is important. The market opens in the morning and winds down in the early afternoon, and it is usually closed on Sundays, so check hours before you plan your day. Arriving between nine and eleven gives the best mix of activity and space. Bring a reusable bag, a little cash and an appetite.

If you stay in an apartment, shopping here is a highlight. If not, pick up cheese, bread and fruit for a picnic in the Alameda, or ask a nearby bar to prepare a plate of what you bought. Pair the visit with a food tour or the old town walk for context.

There are a few market habits worth knowing. Vendors expect you to ask before touching the produce, and many will pick the best pieces for you. Prices are often marked by the kilo, and you can buy small quantities. The sellers of fish will clean and fillet your purchase on request, which is handy if you have a kitchen.

Come with curiosity and patience, and do not be shy about asking what something is. Visiting in the shoulder seasons gives you a more relaxed pace, and the produce reflects what is truly local at that moment.