The road from Santiago to Portillo is one of the great mountain drives in South America. It follows the Aconcagua Valley north-east towards Los Andes, then climbs through the Caracoles switchbacks, a long series of tight hairpin bends that wind up towards the border with Argentina. At about 2,900 metres above sea level you reach Portillo, a historic ski area set beside the Laguna del Inca, an emerald-green lake that sits in a bowl of bare, snow-streaked peaks. The lagoon is named for a legend that an Inca ruler’s bride was drowned here, and it is a favourite subject for photographers. In summer you can walk the lakeshore on a short path, enjoy a picnic and watch the colour of the water change with the light. The Aconcagua massif, the highest peak in the Americas, lies just across the border, and on clear days tours stop at viewpoints where you can see its glaciated summit. In winter, when snow closes the lake area to walkers, the same drive becomes the access road for one of the continent’s most storied ski resorts. A guided day trip takes the driving off your hands and usually adds a viewpoint stop or two and a picnic or meal in the mountains.
How it works
Tours leave Santiago early and take around two and a half hours each way. Crossing the high pass depends on weather and border traffic, and in heavy snow the road can close, so ask about the season and any alternative route when you book. Your guide handles the stops and timing.
What to expect
The drive itself is half the fun, passing the Los Andes valley, orchards and then steep, rocky terrain. At the lagoon you have time for a walk, photographs and a snack. The air is thin at this height, so move slowly and drink water. Temperatures are cool even in summer.
Making the most of it
Bring layers, sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat, since the sun is intense at altitude. Travel sick passengers should sit near the front and take medication before the Caracoles bends. This trip is best from late spring to early autumn for walking; in winter, expect snow scenery and ski traffic instead.
What to expect
The experience
A guided full-day road trip into the high Andes, with scenic stops, a walk by the lagoon and a mountain picnic or meal.
Best time
Late spring to early autumn for lakeside walks; winter for snow scenery, subject to road conditions.
How long
Nine to eleven hours including roughly two and a half hours of driving each way.
Tips
Take layers, sun protection and water, and ask about road and pass conditions before you go.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who want big mountain scenery and a high-altitude lake in a single day.
- Families
- Older children who cope with long drives will love the lake and the snowy peaks; the hairpin bends can upset young stomachs.
- Couples
- The turquoise lagoon and the sweeping views make a memorable day out together.
- Pair with
- A winery in the Aconcagua Valley on the way back, or a quiet evening after a long day.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
How long is the drive to Portillo?+
Allow about two and a half hours each way from Santiago, plus stops. Weather and border traffic can add time.
Can I visit in winter?+
Yes, but conditions differ. The lake area can be buried in snow and the road may close in storms, so check the season and what the tour offers instead.
Will I feel the altitude?+
Portillo is at about 2,900 metres, so some visitors feel light-headed or tired. Move slowly, drink water and avoid heavy meals before the trip.
Can I see Aconcagua?+
On clear days, yes, from certain viewpoints along the road. Cloud and haze can hide it, so treat it as a bonus.
What should I bring?+
Warm layers, sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and water. Bring your passport only if the tour operator asks for it, as the border crossing is not part of the standard trip.
