Santiago surprises many first-time visitors. They arrive expecting a stopover on the way to Patagonia or the Atacama and find a relaxed, green capital with excellent museums, a lively food and wine scene and the Andes looming over every street. Here is how to shape a first visit.
When to go
The seasons are the reverse of the northern hemisphere. Spring, from September to November, and autumn, from March to May, are the most pleasant, with warm days, cool nights and, after rain, crystal-clear views of snowy peaks. Summer, from December to February, is hot and dry, and many locals leave for the coast in February. Winter brings cold mornings and, at times, smog that hides the mountains. November is a lovely month, with green vineyards and long evenings.
How many days
Three full days covers the city essentials: one for the historic centre, one for the hills and neighbourhoods, and one for wine. Four or five days lets you add Valparaíso and the Casablanca Valley, or the Cajón del Maipo canyon in the mountains.
What to book ahead
A few things need planning. Free guided tours of Palacio de La Moneda require online registration on the presidency’s heritage visits site, and places are limited, so register as soon as your dates are fixed. Winery visits at Concha y Toro in the Maipo Valley and Casas del Bosque in Casablanca are booked online for fixed tour times; at Casas del Bosque, weekend slots are arranged by email. Book a timed sunset slot at Sky Costanera at weekends. Most museums, including the Precolombino, La Chascona and the free Museo de la Memoria and Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, can be visited without booking.
Mind the Mondays
Many sights close on Mondays: the Precolombino, La Chascona, the Bellas Artes and the Museum of Memory, and the cable car on Cerro San Cristóbal is closed for maintenance. Make Monday your wine or coast day.
Getting around
The metro is clean, fast and the best way to get around. Line 1 runs under the Alameda and Avenida Providencia, linking the historic centre, Lastarria, Providencia, the Costanera Center and El Golf. You need a rechargeable bip! card, sold at stations. Ride-hailing apps work well and are good value, and taxis should be official ones. For the wine valleys, a driver or small-group tour avoids drinking and driving. Buses to Valparaíso leave frequently from the Pajaritos and Alameda terminals and take about an hour and a half.
Where the headline sights fit
Day one: the historic centre. Start with a La Moneda tour, then walk to the Plaza de Armas and the Precolombino Museum, and finish by climbing Cerro Santa Lucía before dinner in Lastarria. Day two: the hills. Visit La Chascona in Bellavista in the morning, take the funicular up Cerro San Cristóbal, ride the cable car down towards Providencia, and end at Sky Costanera for sunset. Day three: the Museum of Memory in the morning, then the Bellas Artes and Parque Forestal, or swap in a half-day at Concha y Toro. Day four: drive to Casablanca for a winery tour and lunch, then continue to Valparaíso for its hills and the Pacific.
Eating and drinking
Santiaguinos eat late, with lunch as the main meal and dinner rarely before eight or nine. Look out for a set lunch menu on weekdays, which is the best value in town. Try a pisco sour, a glass of Carmenère, Chile’s signature red grape, and empanadas de pino, filled with beef, onion, egg and olive. Lastarria, Bellavista and Providencia have the densest choice of restaurants and bars.
Money and manners
Cards are widely accepted, but carry some pesos for kiosks, markets and tips. A tip of around ten percent is usually suggested on restaurant bills. Santiago is generally safe for visitors, but pickpockets work the busy centre, so keep phones out of sight and bags zipped.