Profitis Ilias Monastery and Summit Walk

Every view on Santorini looks better from higher up, and nowhere is higher than Profitis Ilias. The island's summit rises to about 567 metres above Pyrgos, part of the old limestone core of the island that existed long before the volcano built the rest around it. On top stands the Monastery of Profitis Ilias, the Prophet Elijah, founded in 1711, a fortress-like complex of white walls and a bell tower that has watched over the island for three centuries. During the Ottoman period monasteries like this one were important centres of learning and island life, and it remains a working religious site today. Next to it, less romantically, stand antennas and a military installation, which you simply learn to look past. The reward is the panorama. From the summit you see the entire island laid out below: the caldera rim curving from Oia to Akrotiri, the volcanic islands in the bay, the vineyards and villages of the interior, the airport and the long black beaches of the east coast, and on a clear day the outlines of Ios, Anafi, Amorgos and even Crete on the horizon. Discover Greece suggests a picnic at the top to enjoy the 360-degree view, and that is exactly the right idea. The best way up is on foot from Pyrgos, which Discover Greece estimates at about an hour along an old path. From the summit, the same route continues along the ridge and down to Ancient Thera on Mesa Vouno, a total of about 5.1 kilometres and two to three hours, with the option to finish at Kamari for a swim and lunch. It is one of the finest walks on Santorini and, unlike many sights here, it is free and makes sense in every season.

Walking it: start in Pyrgos, ideally early in the morning, and follow the path that climbs from the upper village towards the summit, partly on old stone-paved tracks and partly alongside the access road. The terrain is rocky volcanic and limestone ground with some steep sections, so wear proper walking shoes and carry plenty of water, because there is no shade and no shop on the way. Discover Greece rates the full Pyrgos to Ancient Thera route as suitable for ages eight and up, and warns that the steep parts can be challenging if you start late on a hot day. In summer, set off at dawn; in spring, autumn and winter the walk is a pleasure at almost any time of day, though the wind on the summit can be fierce and cold.

Visiting the monastery: the monastery is a religious community rather than a tourist attraction, and opening to visitors is irregular, so treat any visit inside as a bonus. If the gate is open, cover shoulders and knees, keep voices low and ask before taking photographs. Even when it is closed, the walls, the bell tower and the view make the climb worthwhile. If you prefer not to walk, a road leads to the top and taxis or hire cars can drive up, but the walk is far more rewarding.

Linking it with other sights: the classic combination is a morning walk from Pyrgos to the summit, down the ridge to Ancient Thera (check its seasonal hours first, as it is closed on Wednesdays in summer and has limited winter opening), and on down to Kamari for a well-earned swim and lunch, returning to Pyrgos or Fira by bus or taxi. Shorter options are a there-and-back walk to the summit from Pyrgos, followed by coffee in the village square. Buses serve both Pyrgos and Kamari, so you do not need a car for a one-way hike.