Kamari Beach

If the caldera villages are Santorini's showpiece, Kamari is where the island goes to the beach. Spread along the east coast below the great limestone mass of Mesa Vouno, it is a long, gently curving beach of dark volcanic sand and smooth pebbles, backed by a pedestrian promenade lined with cafes, tavernas, bars, ice-cream shops and small stores. The Municipal Port Fund of Thira describes it as one of the top swimming choices on the island, praising its black sand and excellent organisation and noting that it has been awarded Blue Flags, the international mark for clean water and well-run beach services. The beach works for almost everyone. In summer, beach bars rent out sunbeds and umbrellas, and the clear water deepens fairly quickly over pebbles, so water shoes are useful for children and anyone with tender feet. The sand itself becomes extremely hot in the afternoon sun, which is the one real drawback of black-sand beaches; bring sandals and stay near the umbrellas. Water sports operators and small boats work from the beach in season, and the promenade is pleasant for an evening stroll, when families come out and restaurants set tables by the sea. Kamari is also a practical place to stay. Hotels here are generally better value than on the caldera, it has year-round residents and services, the airport is close, and buses run regularly to Fira. Above the southern end of the beach rises Mesa Vouno with the ruins of Ancient Thera on top, and the road and footpath up start here. Kamari is also home to one of the island's summer open-air cinemas, a lovely way to spend a warm evening with children. What you will not get is a caldera view or a sunset over the sea: the beach faces east, so it is a place for sunrise swims, not sunset cocktails.

When to go and what is open: the beach is free and open all year, but the beach bars, sunbed rentals and most of the promenade businesses are seasonal, opening roughly from April or May to October. In November some cafes and tavernas stay open for residents, and the beach is lovely for a walk, but the sea is cooling and the umbrellas are packed away. In July and August the beach is busy but rarely unpleasant, because it is so long; walk towards the quieter northern end if you want more space. Early morning is the best time to swim, with calm water, cool sand and the sun rising over the Aegean.

Getting there and around: local buses run between Fira and Kamari frequently in season and less often in winter, and the ride takes around twenty minutes. Taxis and hire cars are straightforward, though parking near the promenade fills up on summer afternoons. There is no direct road along the coast to Perissa, because Mesa Vouno is in the way; small boats sometimes run between the two beaches in summer, and walkers can cross the mountain via Ancient Thera, which makes a memorable half-day hike in the cooler months. The airport is a few minutes away, so you may hear the occasional aircraft overhead.

Who it suits: families with young children who need easy facilities, travellers on a budget who want to be near the sea, and anyone planning to combine beach days with Ancient Thera and the wineries of the interior. Couples looking for romance and caldera sunsets will want to spend evenings in Fira or Oia instead, which is easy by bus or taxi. Compared with Perissa and Perivolos on the other side of the mountain, Kamari feels more like a small resort town and a little more family-focused, while Perivolos has more of a beach-club scene.