Putaleng Peak Two-Day Hike

Fansipan gets the attention, but it is not the only high mountain in the Hoang Lien range. Putaleng rises to well over 3,000 metres on the far side of the Tram Ton pass, in Lai Chau province, and draws far fewer walkers. That is much of its appeal. The two-day hike on this page takes you into forest and open ridgeline with an overnight stop on the mountain, then to the summit and back. It is hard work, with steep ascents and rough ground, but the compensation is solitude: you are more likely to share the trail with a guide, a porter and a few other walkers than with a queue. Plant life changes as you gain height, from broadleaf forest to mossy cloud forest to bamboo and scrub, and in spring the slopes can be coloured by rhododendrons. The views from the ridges open across the range and down to the valleys, and on a clear day they are among the best in northern Vietnam. This is a trek for people who like proper hiking, can carry a daypack, and are happy with a basic night on the mountain in return for space and silence.

Prepare as you would for any serious two-day hike. Sturdy, broken-in boots, a waterproof, layers for cold nights, a headtorch, a refillable water bottle and your own snacks are all sensible. Trails are rough and can be muddy, with roots, rocks and steep sections, so trekking poles help. The guide and support team handle the route, meals and overnight arrangements, and you should confirm the details of the camp, what bedding is supplied and what is carried for you.

Choose your season. Spring brings flowering shrubs but also cloud and rain, while autumn and early winter often give the clearest air. Cold nights are normal at altitude, so pack for temperatures well below those in Sa Pa town. The trek is weather dependent, and a poor forecast can mean a change of plan, so keep a spare day if possible. Leave no rubbish on the mountain, and follow the guide's advice on camping and fires.Think about how it fits with other treks.

If you have already done the Fansipan trek or the Hoang Lien National Park trek, Putaleng offers a different part of the range with a more remote feel. If you are new to mountain hiking, begin with a one-day village trek, then step up when you know how your body handles altitude and long days. A massage in town afterwards is well deserved.Some practical reminders will help. Confirm what is included in terms of meals, water, permits, transport to the trailhead and any porters, and ask how large the group will be.

Break in your boots before the trip, because blisters are the most common reason for a miserable second day. Keep a plastic bag for wet clothing, and charge your headtorch and phone before leaving town. Since the trail is quiet, tell someone at your hotel where you are going, and follow your guide closely when visibility is poor or the path splits. Pack a small first-aid kit with blister plasters, and carry some of your own electrolytes or energy snacks for the long second day.