Seoul Travel Guide
Where to Stay in Seoul
Gwanghwamun and Jongno for palaces, Myeongdong for shopping and convenience, Hongdae for nightlife and the airport train, Gangnam and Jamsil for modern Seoul — how to choose your base, with the hotel we would book in each.
Seoul is a city of districts, each with its own personality, and the subway ties them together efficiently. Even so, the right base saves hours and shapes your whole trip. The key question is simple: is your Seoul the royal city and the markets, or the modern city of shopping, nightlife and K-culture? Here is how the main areas compare, and the hotel we would choose in each.
Gwanghwamun and Jongno: for palaces and history. The old royal city north of the Cheonggyecheon stream is where Seoul began, and it is the best base for a first trip focused on history. Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Bukchon, Insadong, Ikseon-dong and Gwangjang Market are all within walking distance or a stop or two by subway, and the area is calm at night. The trade-off is that Gwanghwamun is a government and business district, quieter after dark than the nightlife areas, and Gangnam is a longer ride. Our pick is the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul, a few minutes from Gwanghwamun Gate, with Charles H., one of Asia's best bars, in the basement and a pool and Korean saunas for recovering after long palace days.
Myeongdong and City Hall: for convenience and shopping. Downtown's shopping district is the most popular first-timer base for good reason. You can walk to the Namsan cable car, Namdaemun Market, Deoksugung and the Cheonggyecheon stream; Lines 2 and 4 put the rest of the city within easy reach; and airport buses stop nearby. Evenings are lively with food carts and late-night shopping, though the crowds and the commercial feel are not for everyone. For a classic full-service hotel, choose Lotte Hotel Seoul, linked directly to Euljiro 1-ga Station and the Lotte Department Store. For style at a mid-range price, L7 Myeongdong has a rooftop bar facing N Seoul Tower and the street food on its doorstep.
Namsan: for a resort feel in the city. The slopes of Namsan, between downtown and Itaewon, are greener and quieter. The Shilla, Seoul's grand urban resort, stands here, with its Urban Island outdoor pool, its spa and its top-floor Korean restaurant, La Yeon, and walking trails along the old city wall from the door. It suits couples and families who want to come back to a sanctuary; the trade-off is that you will take taxis or a short walk to the subway at Dongguk University.
Hongdae and Yeonnam-dong: for nightlife, youth culture and the airport train. The university district in the west is Seoul's creative heart, with K-pop busking every night, indie shops, bars, clubs and an endless choice of cheap restaurants. It is fun, young and good value, and Hongik University Station is on the AREX airport railroad, so you can ride straight in from Incheon. The palaces are about half an hour away and the streets are loud late at night. Our pick is L7 Hongdae, beside the station, with a seasonal rooftop pool.
Gangnam: for modern Seoul, shopping and dining. South of the river, Gangnam is wealthy and polished, home to designer flagships, beauty clinics, entertainment-agency headquarters, Garosu-gil's boutiques, COEX and the Starfield Library. It suits business travelers, shoppers and returning visitors, but it is a long way from the old city. Josun Palace, a Luxury Collection hotel on Teheran-ro with an art-filled sky lobby, is the most glamorous address.
Jamsil: for skyline drama and families. The southeast is dominated by the Lotte World Tower, the Lotte World theme park, Seokchon Lake and the Olympic Park. It is a fantastic base for families and for a special-occasion stay, but it is the farthest of the main areas from the palaces. Signiel Seoul, on floors 76 to 101 of the tower, is the most spectacular hotel in Korea.
Other areas worth knowing. Itaewon and Hannam-dong, below Namsan, are cosmopolitan dining and nightlife districts with a lively international scene. Seongsu, east of downtown on the river, is a former factory district turned into the coolest neighborhood in Seoul, with warehouse cafes, pop-up stores and fashion brands. Insadong and Ikseon-dong have hanok guesthouses for travelers who want to sleep in a traditional house. Yeouido, on its island in the Han, is a business district with easy access to the river parks.
Our verdict. For a first trip of up to five days, stay in Gwanghwamun, Jongno or Myeongdong, and use the subway for everything else. For nightlife and value, choose Hongdae. For a longer stay, consider splitting your nights: downtown for the palaces, then a final night or two in Jamsil or Gangnam for the skyline and the shopping. Wherever you stay, check the walk to the nearest subway station; Seoul's hills and long station corridors add up over a few days. Book early for cherry-blossom season in early April and the autumn foliage weeks from late October, when the best-located hotels fill first.