Kbal Spean is one of the most unusual sights in the Angkor region, a place where the river itself is sacred art. In the eleventh and twelfth centuries, Hindu sculptors carved a riverbed in the foothills of Phnom Kulen with hundreds of lingas, the phallic symbol of the god Shiva, along with images of Vishnu reclining on a serpent, Shiva with his consort Uma and other deities. The idea was that the water flowing over the carvings was blessed and would carry fertility and prosperity downstream to the plains of Angkor and the rice fields below. The site takes a little effort to reach: it lies about an hour and a half by road from Siem Reap, beyond Banteay Srei, and you walk up through the forest on a well-made path for about thirty to forty minutes before reaching the carvings. The woodland itself is a pleasure, with birdsong, butterflies and big old trees, and the sound of water guides you up to the river and the little waterfall at the top. The best time to see the carvings clearly is when the river is flowing, from the end of the rainy season into the early dry months, because the water makes the lingas shine.
How to visit
Kbal Spean is inside the Angkor Archaeological Park ticketing area, so it needs an Angkor Pass, which is not included in the tour and is sold only by Angkor Enterprise, online or at the Road 60 ticket office. The trailhead has a small ticket check, toilets and a few stalls.
The walk uphill takes around thirty to forty minutes at an easy pace, on a path with some stone steps and a few rocky stretches, and you should allow a similar time to come down. Most visitors spend about two hours at the site altogether.
The tour
The day tour combines Kbal Spean with Banteay Srei, usually visiting the pink-sandstone temple first, while it is quiet, and then driving a further stretch to the Kbal Spean trailhead for the walk. Transport and a guide are normally included, but the Angkor Pass and lunch usually are not, so check inclusions when you book. A guide is helpful at Kbal Spean, because the carvings are subtle and easy to miss without someone pointing them out.
Making the most of it
Wear sturdy shoes and carry plenty of water, as the walk is humid and the path can be slippery after rain. Bring insect repellent, a hat and a light waterproof in the wetter months. The carvings are most striking from late in the rainy season to the beginning of the dry season, from about October to December, when the river is full; later in the dry season the water thins and the stone is harder to read.
Take your time at the top, where the river tumbles over a small waterfall and the carved stones lie in clear water beneath tall trees, and look closely at the riverbed as well as the banks, since many of the lingas are carved in neat grids that are easy to overlook. Because of the distance and the walk, this is a full-day outing, and it combines well with a stop at the Cambodia Landmine Museum on the way back to town.
What to expect
The experience
A scenic drive north of Angkor, a visit to Banteay Srei and then a forest walk up to the carved riverbed of Kbal Spean.
Best time
Late in the rainy season and the early dry season, from about October to December, when the river is flowing over the carvings.
How long
A full day of seven to eight hours, with about thirty to forty minutes of walking uphill each way.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes, carry water and insect repellent, and bring your Angkor Pass, which is not included.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Active travellers, photographers and anyone looking for something different from the standard temple circuit.
- Families
- Older children who can manage a forest walk will enjoy it; the uphill path is not suited to pushchairs or very young children.
- Couples
- A quiet forest walk and a sacred riverbed make a memorable, off-the-beaten-track day out.
- Pair with
- Banteay Srei the same day, plus the Cambodia Landmine Museum on the drive back.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
What is Kbal Spean?+
Kbal Spean is a riverbed in the foothills of Phnom Kulen carved in the eleventh and twelfth centuries with hundreds of lingas and Hindu deities. It is often called the River of a Thousand Lingas.
How long is the walk to Kbal Spean?+
The path from the trailhead to the carvings takes around thirty to forty minutes uphill at an easy pace, on forest steps and rocky stretches. Allow a similar time to come back down.
When is the best time to see the carvings?+
The river is fullest from late in the rainy season into the early dry months, roughly October to December, which makes the carvings easier to see. Later in the dry season there is less water.
Do I need an Angkor Pass for Kbal Spean?+
Yes, you need an Angkor Pass, which is not included in the tour price. It is sold only by Angkor Enterprise, online or at the ticket office on Road 60.
Can I visit Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei in one day?+
Yes, they are on the same road north of Siem Reap and are usually combined in a single day tour. Start early to see Banteay Srei before the crowds.
