Phnom Bakheng is the classic place to watch the sun go down over Angkor. It is a temple on a hill, built at the end of the ninth century by King Yasovarman I when he moved the Khmer capital to the area, and it was the first great temple-mountain of the Angkor period. From the summit, a five-tiered pyramid crowned with five towers, you look out over the forest canopy to the towers of Angkor Wat in the distance and across the flat plain towards the great reservoir of the West Baray. This tour takes you to Bakheng at the end of a full day on the Big Circuit, the longer loop that passes the temples east and north of Angkor Thom, so you see quieter sites during the day and finish at the most famous sunset spot. A guide explains the history, the symbolism of the layout and the way the temple’s plan represents Mount Meru. It is a very good value way to cover a lot of ground, with a mixture of well-known stops and lesser-visited sites, and a rewarding finish for anyone who likes dramatic skies.
How to visit
The tour usually starts in the morning with a pick-up from your hotel, visits a series of temples along the Grand or Big Circuit and arrives at Phnom Bakheng in the late afternoon. The climb to the summit is by a steep path or a stair, taking about fifteen to twenty minutes on foot, and access to the top is controlled so that only a limited number of people are on the temple at one time. Check the operator for the itinerary and whether it includes the Angkor Pass, which is required for every temple in the park and is sold only by the park’s authorised seller.
What to expect
Expect a day of walking and climbing in the heat, with plenty of stops in the shade. The Big Circuit typically includes temples such as Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebon and Pre Rup, each with its own character, from the forest-wrapped corridors of Ta Som to the red sandstone pyramid of Pre Rup.
By the time you reach Bakheng you will have seen several of the park’s quieter corners. At the top, there is a rush for the best viewpoints, so arrive early, find a spot and be patient. The sunset can be spectacular or hazy depending on the weather, and the view of Angkor Wat’s towers over the trees is the highlight.
Making the most of it
Wear shoes with good grip for the climb and for the stone steps, light clothing that covers shoulders and knees and a hat. Bring water, sunscreen and a small torch or phone light for the walk down in the dusk, since the path is uneven and the sun sets quickly.
Come in the dry season from November to March for clear skies, or in the green season for dramatic clouds and fewer crowds. Because the tour covers much ground in a day, it suits fit travellers with some stamina, and it works best as a second or third temple day after you have seen Angkor Wat and the Bayon.
If you prefer a gentler day, pick a shorter itinerary with a late start, and allow extra time for queues at the summit. Keep your belongings with you at the top, and be considerate of other visitors. After sunset, a tuk-tuk back to town and dinner on Pub Street complete the day.
What to expect
The experience
A full-day guided tour of the Big Circuit temples, ending with a climb to Phnom Bakheng for sunset.
Best time
The dry season from November to March for clearer skies; arrive early at the summit.
How long
About nine to ten hours with a late-afternoon climb.
Tips
Wear shoes with grip, cover shoulders and knees, bring water and a torch for the descent, and arrive early at the summit.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Temple enthusiasts who want to cover the outer circuit and finish with a famous sunset.
- Families
- Better for older children with the stamina for a long day of walking.
- Couples
- A scenic sunset over the plain at the end of the day.
- Pair with
- Angkor Wat sunrise on another day, and Phare or the food tour in the evening.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
Why is Phnom Bakheng famous?+
It is a hilltop temple from the late ninth century and the first great temple-mountain of Angkor. Its summit gives wide views, including Angkor Wat’s towers, and it is a popular sunset spot.
Is access to the summit limited?+
Yes. The number of people on the top level is controlled, so queues can form before sunset. Arrive early and be patient.
Do I need an Angkor Pass?+
Yes. Every temple in the Angkor park requires a pass, sold by the park’s authorised seller. The operator says whether the tour includes it.
How hard is the climb?+
The climb takes about fifteen to twenty minutes on a steep path or stairs. Wear good shoes and take your time in the heat.
What is the Big Circuit?+
It is the longer loop of temples east and north of Angkor Thom, including sites such as Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebon and Pre Rup.
