Long before Angkor, there was Isanapura. Founded in the early seventh century as the capital of the Chenla kingdom, it is now known as Sambor Prei Kuk and sits in the forest of Kampong Thom province, about three hours east of Siem Reap. The site was listed by UNESCO in 2017 and is the oldest major group of temples in Cambodia, with more than a hundred brick sanctuaries scattered through the trees. Its architecture is quite unlike the sandstone temples of Angkor: small, elegant towers of brick, many of them octagonal, rise from clearings in the forest, some wrapped in the roots of giant trees and others carved with delicate lintels and mythical beasts. The setting is tranquil, with birdsong, butterflies and few other visitors. Villagers still live around the site, and a local guide can show you the ruined walls, the lion statues and the bomb craters left by wartime air raids. For travellers who have seen the main Angkor circuit and want to go further back in history, a day at Sambor Prei Kuk is a quiet and rewarding adventure.
How to visit
The tour is a long day trip by car with a guide, leaving Siem Reap in the morning and returning in the evening. The drive takes around three hours each way, passing rice fields, small towns and roadside stalls. At the site you walk or ride between the three main groups of temples, Prasat Sambor, Prasat Tao and Prasat Yeay Poan, with a local guide. Check the operator for the itinerary, the entry fee arrangements and whether lunch is included, and carry small cash for the ticket if it is not covered.
What to see
Prasat Sambor is the largest group, with a central tower and several smaller sanctuaries, while Prasat Tao has two guardian lions that give the group its name, which means lion temple. Yeay Poan, or Grandmother Poan, is an unforgettable group of ruined towers wrapped by tree roots, and the site as a whole shows the early development of Khmer architecture, including features that later appear at Angkor.
Carved brick lintels and decorated niches survive in places, and your guide explains the symbolism of the shrines and the connection to Hindu worship of Shiva. The octagonal towers are rare in Khmer architecture and give the site its distinct character.
Making the most of it
Wear sturdy shoes for uneven forest paths, a hat, long sleeves or insect repellent for mosquitoes and light clothing that covers shoulders and knees. Bring plenty of water, since facilities are limited. The best time to visit is the dry season from November to March, when the roads and paths are firm, while the rainy months can leave tracks muddy. The trip is physical and long, so it suits travellers with energy and curiosity rather than small children.
Some operators combine the temples with the Tonle Sap village of Kampong Khleang or with Beng Mealea, and others offer an overnight stay in a village homestay, which gives you more time and a quieter morning. If you enjoy archaeology and fewer crowds, this is among the most memorable day trips in the region.
What to expect
The experience
A guided full-day drive to the pre-Angkorian capital of Isanapura, with a walk among the brick temple groups in the forest.
Best time
The dry season from November to March, in the cooler morning hours.
How long
A long day of about ten to twelve hours, with around three hours of driving each way.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes and light long clothes, bring water and insect repellent, and carry small cash for any entry fee not included.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers and repeat visitors who want to go back before Angkor.
- Families
- Better for older children and teenagers because of the long drive and the forest paths.
- Couples
- A quiet, uncrowded day among forest ruins.
- Pair with
- Allow a rest day afterwards, or combine it with Kampong Khleang on a longer itinerary.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
Why is Sambor Prei Kuk important?+
It is the ancient capital Isanapura, founded in the early seventh century, and the oldest major temple site in Cambodia. UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage site in 2017.
How far is Sambor Prei Kuk from Siem Reap?+
It is about three hours by road each way, in Kampong Thom province. Tours usually leave early in the morning.
Do I need an Angkor Pass?+
No. Sambor Prei Kuk is not part of the Angkor park, but it has its own entry ticket. Check the operator for whether the ticket is included.
How is it different from Angkor?+
The temples are earlier and built of brick rather than sandstone, many of the towers are octagonal and the site is quiet and forested.
What should I wear?+
Wear sturdy shoes, light clothing that covers shoulders and knees, a hat and insect repellent. Facilities are limited, so bring water.
