Casa das Historias Paula Rego is the cultural highlight of Cascais, a museum devoted to the Portuguese-British painter Paula Rego and to the narratives that fill her work. The building is as memorable as the art: designed by the Pritzker Prize-winning architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, it is a pair of red pyramid-like towers beside a garden, a bold shape against the green park in which it sits. Inside, the galleries show paintings, drawings, etchings and sketches that explore storytelling, folklore, family, power and fear with a dark, humorous and sometimes unsettling edge. The collection is shown in changing selections, so each visit feels slightly different, and there are usually temporary exhibitions that place her work beside that of other artists. The house also contains a library, a shop and a cafe, and the surrounding garden makes a pleasant place to sit. It is a short walk from the town centre and a calm contrast to the beaches and the lighthouse, and it appeals to anyone who enjoys modern art or interesting architecture.
Practical details are easy to manage. The museum is in the Cascais municipal park area, a short walk from the old town and the main square, so visitors on foot or by bicycle can reach it in a few minutes. Hours, admission details and any weekly closing day should be checked on the venue's page before you go, since museums often close one day a week and may have free-entry days or reductions for certain groups.
Photography rules vary by gallery, and some temporary exhibitions have their own restrictions, so ask at the desk if you want to take pictures.
What you see depends partly on the current display, but the core is the work of Paula Rego, whose figures and scenes draw on fairy tales, Portuguese history and personal experience. Expect large canvases in pastel and oil, intricate drawings and prints, and series that tell stories across several images.
The rooms are arranged so that the architecture frames the work, with calm light and clear spaces. Some images are dark or disturbing in theme, so families with younger children should look at the content in advance, although older children and teenagers often respond strongly to the narrative element.
Allow around ninety minutes for a relaxed visit, plus time for the cafe and the garden. Because the displays rotate, it is worth looking at what is currently on show before you go, and a second visit on a later trip can reveal an entirely different selection of her work.
The museum fits naturally into a Cascais day. Visit in the morning, then walk to the old town for lunch, or combine it with the Santa Marta Lighthouse Museum and the marina for a cultural half day. It is also a very good wet-weather option, since the visit is almost entirely indoors and the building is a destination in itself.
If you are travelling with someone who finds palaces repetitive, this offers a completely different kind of day out. The calm of the garden and the clean lines of the architecture make it easy to take a break from the busier parts of the coast, and the museum shop is a good place for books and prints that remind you of the visit.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided visit to galleries of paintings, drawings and prints by Paula Rego, in a landmark red building beside a quiet garden.
Best time
Weekday mornings or a wet afternoon, when you want an unhurried indoor visit.
How long
Around ninety minutes, plus time in the cafe and garden.
Tips
Check opening days and any free-entry days on the venue's page, and look at the themes in advance if bringing young children.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Art and architecture lovers, and anyone who wants a break from palaces and beaches.
- Families
- Teenagers often enjoy the storytelling, but some images are dark, so check the content before bringing young children.
- Couples
- Pair it with a slow lunch in the old town and a stroll through the park.
- Pair with
- The Santa Marta Lighthouse Museum, the Cascais old town and the marina.
- Time needed
- Ninety minutes, or a relaxed half morning.
Good questions
Who was Paula Rego?+
Paula Rego was a Portuguese-British painter and printmaker known for narrative works that draw on folklore, family and politics, often with a dark and humorous edge.
Who designed the museum building?+
The building was designed by the architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, and its red pyramid-like towers are one of the landmarks of Cascais.
How long does a visit take?+
Plan on about ninety minutes, plus time for the cafe and garden.
Is it suitable for children?+
Older children and teenagers often enjoy it, but some works have dark themes, so look at the content first if you have younger children.
Is it a good rainy-day option?+
Yes. The visit is mostly indoors, and the building and garden are pleasant in any weather.
