Villa Jovis, Capri

Villa Jovis, the Villa of Jupiter, was the grandest of the imperial villas on Capri. The emperor Tiberius ruled the Roman world from the island for the last decade of his life, from about AD 27, and this sprawling complex on Monte Tiberio, more than three hundred metres above the sea, was his main residence. What survives is the massive ground plan: vaulted cisterns that collected rainwater, the remains of baths, residential quarters, a long covered loggia and the base of a tower that once held a lighthouse. Even in ruin, the scale is striking, and the position is spectacular, with cliffs falling to the sea on several sides. A short path leads to the Leap of Tiberius, a sheer precipice from which, according to ancient writers, the emperor had enemies thrown into the sea. The story may be exaggerated, but the drop is real and the view across to the mainland and the Sorrento peninsula is superb. A small chapel on the ridge adds a quiet counterpoint to the imperial ruins. The villa is one of the most evocative ancient sites in the bay, and it is far quieter than Pompeii.

The way to Villa Jovis is part of the experience. From Capri town, a signed lane climbs for about forty minutes through lanes lined with walls, gardens and villas, then up through woods to the ridge. The route is steady but not technical, and the views open as you rise. There is no road to the top for visitors, so be prepared for a real walk, and for the same distance back.

The venue's own ticket page covers opening times and admission, and it is the right place to check before you go, because hours change by season and the last entry is earlier in the colder months.

Choose your day carefully. In clear, dry weather the climb is a pleasure and the summit is a highlight of any Capri visit. In rain the path can be slippery and the ruins are exposed, and in strong wind the cliff edge is uncomfortable. Wear sturdy shoes and bring water, a hat and a jacket, because the ridge is breezy, and there are few services on the walk.

Allow about an hour and a half for the visit itself including the climb, or a little over three hours if you walk up and down at an easy pace and linger at the top.

Villa Jovis fits well into a Capri day built around Capri town, the Gardens of Augustus and Anacapri. Do it first, before the afternoon crowds and the heat, and finish with a late lunch in town. If the climb sounds too much, the Gardens of Augustus and Villa San Michele offer easier views. For history lovers, however, this is the sight that most clearly conjures the strange, secluded imperial court that once ran the empire from a cliff on this small island.

Small details add to the visit. Look for the vaulted cisterns, which show how the villa stored water on a dry mountain, and the long loggia where the emperor walked, and take a moment at the small church on the ridge, which sits among the ruins like a quiet footnote. Carry a little cash for a drink on the way down, as cafes in town are the only services, and allow time to wander the lanes of Capri town on the return.